7.8

pretty bad
Typical Repair Cost:
$1,290
Average Mileage:
83,250 miles
Total Complaints:
8 complaints

Most common solutions:

  1. not sure (6 reports)
  2. replace alternator (1 reports)
  3. replace timing chain (1 reports)
Get notified about new defects, investigations, recalls & lawsuits for the 2013 Chevrolet Captiva:

Unsubscribe any time. We don't sell/share your email.

problem #8

Feb 152023

Captiva LT 2.4L Eotec

  • Automatic transmission
  • 107,000 miles

I bought the car used out of warranty and had to replace the engine after owning for only 3 months. There was some slight knocking and oil was still in the car and the lights only came on the day the engine died.

- Mike G., Saint George, UT, US

problem #7

May 052021

Captiva

  • Automatic transmission
  • 108,000 miles

These cars are a piece of s**t, if you recall one model and another has the same engine, and same problem, you recall them all. DO NOT BUY THIS CAR! Engine is no good after 70,000 - 80,000, a big headache waiting to happen, the car sucks, and everyone I see with it, I will let them know, get rid of this headache. Worthless car.

Update from Jun 5, 2021: Engine totally done... Worst car I have ever had, I see why Saturn stopped making it. Now I'm stuck with a piece of sh#t car.

- Ken A., Newark, NJ, US

problem #6

May 232019

Captiva Sports 3.2L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 118,000 miles

Bought this vehicle in May 2019, 118,000 miles. Wanted a compact SUV. Wrong choice! After two weeks I was turning out of Mcdonalds and it cut completely off, was driving down the interstate and guess what, it cut completely off on the interstate :( took it to Advance-there was at least 8-10 bad fuels; they had never seen that many bad fuels on a vehicle that didn't have any recalls. Took it to the dealership $300. That was about 3 weeks ago that we had it fixed, Yesterday 7/7/19 I was driving home, guess what, the brake lights as well as the battery light came on. I stopped at the stop sign, once again it cut & my husband had to jump it off. I drove it today and my husband was going to drive it to work tonight, guess what, it wouldn't say a word. We did have the battery checked yesterday and it was fine, so it's not the battery. I feel like I was ripped off, very bad deal and horrible vehicle. I did buy it off a dealership lot, I feel like they didn't do their job in checking the vehicle out!

Update from Aug 12, 2019: It's me again...UPDATE...so on July 16 we took the vehicle to another shop- not a dealership- we left for vacation on the 21st without the car, stayed a week within that time we got a call & said the body module need replacing (a part that resets factory settings) price😕 Right at $600...remember I have lien...we return to the shop on the 30th drove the vehicle home, drove it around the next day & guest what, was getting ready to leave a store & it wouldn't start. This time it was the battery cable that ran under the vehicle....replaced....cost: another $80. Had the vehicle 3 months probably drove it less than a month & already roughly $1000 in the hole.

I will not recommend this vehicle to any one. I hope this help someone

Have been driving it for about 4 days & so far so good.🙏🏾

- Ernestine A., Camden, SC, US

problem #5

Sep 062018

Captiva

  • Automatic transmission
  • 86,000 miles

The first issue I noticed was that the engine was making a squealing noise every time the air condition was on and would only blow air if turned to auto. I took it to a local shop, thinking it was a belt but he couldn't find anything wrong with it. A week later the car started making an even worse noise and it would jerk or turn off when I would be idling at a stoplight. I would have to keep the gas pushed a little just so it wouldn't stop. The check engine light came on so I took it to auto zone and the code was reading "P0014 - Exhaust (B) Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Advanced (Bank 1)".

I finally took it to the dealership and they are saying the Timing Chain needs replaced and it is unsafe to drive. The car has 86,000 miles on it and the cost is going to be around $1800. An online estimate says the cost is around $791-$1074 so this does seem a little high. Today is Thursday and they will not be able to repair it until Monday because they need to order parts and it will take about 8 hours. They have to lift the motor all the way out to get to the chain. They were nice enough to give me loaner car to drive while I wait though.

- heavensheart, Belle, US

problem #4

Jun 022017

Captiva LT Fleet Sport 2.4L 4 cyl 6a

  • Automatic transmission
  • 58,737 miles

click to see larger images

engine dies

I been having problems with the car close to 60 days. Starting trembling and then stop out of the blue. The motor light star showing. Change my oil, restart battery the light went of and after half an hour light motor went on again. Even the mechanic those not know what going on. The car stop sometime even went I' driving, in a light, in traffic. In less 3.1 mile from y work to the house the car stop 5 time. I do not feel safe in my car and worry that some tragic accident made happen and will be come a major situation.

- Anixia G., Miami, FL, US

problem #3

Feb 012017

Captiva

  • Automatic transmission
  • 98,000 miles

Had 2 road service calls, 1 to start, then quit again, hauled to shop. Thinking this was a big fix to pay out of pocket on car only used for pleasure and with 98,000 miles.

- Judith C., Alma, US

problem #2

Jan 012015

Captiva

  • Automatic transmission
  • 55,000 miles

I live in Phoenix Arizona, and for the past 10 months my car has been acting up, more so now that the temperature is getting hotter. I try to start the car but it seems to be dead and wont turn on. No lights, no radio, no clicking sound, nothing to its movement. My battery is at 99% good, and I know this because I had it testing thinking it was the battery. Needless to say my car has a problem that is/has not been identified. If I hold the key in the starting position eventually the car will start in about 30-40 seconds, if I keep my key in the accessory position the car will turn the radio, and lights, then I can start it. This is defiantly not normal. I have been doing some research on any recalls but not having any luck YET. Also when I am driving the RPM's will go out of wack, like if the car wants to turn off but doesn't. When I am driving and I come to a stop or press on the gas the car will jerk a little. On top of everything my car has been infested with spiders and I had to bomb. If anybody has any good info to help me that would be great and I hope this helps.

- Andrea M., Phoenix, AZ, US

problem #1

Mar 032015

Captiva Sport 3..2L V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 35,000 miles

This problem occurs very often. While driving, there will be "ting" "ting" noise which will be followed by a flash of the brake sign light, the battery sign light or the parking brake sign on the dashboard. This will be followed by some rash sounds from the hood. If I stop after this problem, the car dies. The key will be stuck in the ignition port. I have called the tow truck 3 times on this problem. Once they open the hood and place the jump cable, even one of the ends of the jump cable, on the battery pole, The car comes back to life. Analysis of the battery condition shows that the battery is good. I have taken the car to the Chevy dealership for this problem, twice with complete description of the problem. The dealership services say they can't find anything wrong. Recently, I sent the car to an independent service professional. They wouldn't touch it because they said it is a warranty problem and that the car may have recall out for this problem.

I am scared to drive the car because it might die while I am on the road. I can't play the radio or even play music because I fear it might die while I am driving. Thank you.

- ibe, Torrance, CA, US