7.0

pretty bad
Typical Repair Cost:
No data
Average Mileage:
15,750 miles
Total Complaints:
2 complaints

Most common solutions:

  1. i came to a resolution iwth dodge, but i don't trust the car (1 reports)
  2. not sure (1 reports)
Get notified about new defects, investigations, recalls & lawsuits for the 2014 Dodge Charger:

Unsubscribe any time. We don't sell/share your email.

This problem may be covered under warranty. Ask your Dodge dealer.

problem #2

Aug 052016

Charger

  • Automatic transmission
  • 26,000 miles

My 2014 Dodge Charger has less than 27,000 miles so I should not have any engine problems yet. When I go to accelerate and it usually happens when I am trying to merge into traffic on an interstate or busy road that the car just stalls or wont accelerate and then the engine light comes on and this is the third time I have had it happen in the last few weeks.

The Dodge dealership says that the light needs to be on when I bring it in for them to check it out. The first two times the light went out the following day, this time the light is still on and this is the third day, hopefully I can make it to the dealership today, with the light still on so they can check this out and tell me why this is happening. I was almost hit on the interstate over the weekend because I went to merge into traffic and it would not accelerate.

- bellewbelle, Campobello, SC, US

problem #1

Mar 162015

Charger SE

  • Automatic transmission
  • 5,500 miles

Before my first oil change, when I would accelerate into traffic, I would lose power to my pedal. My pedal would be non responsive for up to 40 seconds when the engine light would come on. After about 40 seconds, it could come alive and catch, but by then, I am in danger because the car behind me thinks I've accelerated to flow into traffic. At first, I thought it was me, but it happened 4 times just getting home. I took it to the dealership first thing in the morning, they saw the code where they said it was P0600 for oil pressure control circuit stuck. I was able to test drive with the tech who attached his laptop to the sensor, and show him the "stall/surge". He could see and feel the "stall/surge" as it was happening but the laptop did not register any issues. The tech tested and diagnosed the oil pressure switch was faulty. the tech replaced the oil pressure switch, but he said he could not duplicate it on his own. They changed the oil for me while it was in for service.

Update from Oct 8, 2015: The same issue happened to me again on 6-10-15 when I was accelerating into traffic when the car "stalled/surged" and I was almost hit from behind. As soon as it happened, I immediately took it to the dealership. They were unable to look at it for a few days because they were so busy.

This is taken directly from the tech's notes on my receipt"

It had the code P06DD . Tech said it was for "engine oil pressure control circuit stuck off" He checked the oil level and it was not reading on the dipstick, he removed the upper intake and checked the spark plugs for fouling. The tech performed a compression test and all cylinders were approximately 180 PSI. He inspected the cylinder with a scope for scoring. He replaced the left bank valve seals valve cover gasket and #2 cylinder spark plug. He evac and recharged the system for removal of line to replace the seals. The tech rec that the client return in 1000 miles to complete the oil consumption test. Changed oil and filter.

I did come back at the 1000 mile mark where the tech tested it and it was fine. They told me I was good to go.

Update from Oct 8, 2015: The 6-10-15 incident was at 12,443 miles.

Update from Oct 8, 2015: 9-26-15. It happened again, this time I was out of town and alone.

Mileage is at 17,000 and the dealership has had the car for 2 weeks already because they are super busy and unable to figure out why the car is "stalling/surging" and has also been using oil. The reason they had me come back at 1000 miles was to see when it was consuming the oil. It was fine until about 3000 more miles when it just drops.

The dealership is going to replace the engine and gave me a loaner since it will be a few more weeks to get it done.

The car has become unpredictable and I frankly concerned for my safety with this car. This was the 3rd repair for the same issue. What does it do to the value of a car when they replace a whole engine? Is it a used or new engine they replace it with?

Update from Nov 20, 2015: On October 14th, Chrysler replaced the engine in this car. There are still issues with hesitating although not to the extent it was before. The engine has a horrible sound like a wind up toy. The transmission is unable to keep up with the engine. It almost seems like there is a software glitch that is not syncing both the engine and transmisison.

Update from Jan 3, 2016: December 28th 2015, I had to bring my car back in because the engine has an annoying whine in the engine. The transmission shifts hard and rough. The engine and transmission are not shifting in sync.( They did a software update for both the engine and transmission)

I am now having issues with the brakes. It's an intermittent issue where the pedal goes all the way to floor and won't stop. I have to pump quickly before it catches.(They were unable to duplicate this issue)

The heater and AC stopped working correctly. If it was cold outside, I could only get very cold air. When it was hot outside, I could only get very hot hot air, there was no middle ground. (The recirculation and blend door was malfunctioning, they replaced those.)

But the biggest issue is something I am unable to find much information anywhere. Back in April, I was in NJ and went inside a restaurant. There was an announcement over the loudspeaker saying a Dodge Charger was in the parking lot and was running. It was estimated that it had been running for possibly 3 hours. I could not believe I say so stupid to leave a car running. I beat my self up over that for a long time. Because of that, I am vigilant about making sure my car is turned off when I leave it. December 21st, I left my car in a parking lot and went into a museum in Raleigh. An hour later, when I returned, the car was running. I know for a fact I had turned it off. I have no idea how long it had been running, but not more than an hour. I do not have remote start. It says the key has left the vehicle. The dealership was not shocked when I told them, they said stranger things have happened. But of course, they were unable to duplicate the issue.

This makes my head hurt.

Update from Aug 19, 2016: After Chrysler replaced my engine, it still had an issue between the transmission and the engine, almost like they were no in sync. Chrysler did a software update on the transmission, but it did not resolve the issue. They told me the drag and whine I am hearing, is a "feature".

I took the car to Sport Durst in Durham NC and the tech there knew exactly what I was talking about. He diagnosed it as the "Torque Converter Locking Up". It is a know issue that Chrysler is aware of, but not many are talking about it. They do not plan to do a update anytime soon, since it's low on their priority list.

Also, I am having some issues with the key and locking the car.

Key has left the vehicle warning, when the key was in the console when I opened the door to get out to look at something

Long time to lock up, can take up to a minute

Car is locked and running when I return

Car locks even when key in on the console and I am opening the back door

I have sued Chrysler under the Lemon Law, they offered to settle for $2500.

I don't trust this car, and would never buy a Chrysler product ever again!

- D G., Cary, NC, US