Here we go again. Car don't start at all

I do the following: change battery, change battery of the key fob, take battery terminals off, try to jump, check fuse box, check oil, voila!!!!!!!

Almost not oil in the oil measurement gauge, why??? Oil is changed every 5,000 miles, same oil that the manufacturer recommends. Put oil, car don't start, check for leaks, no leaks so car is consuming oil, why? Manufacturer believe is aware of the problem, I assume the reason behind why they don't want to produce more of this car, complete disaster Dodge. I never again I buy one of your cars.

Ever since the first cold weather in 2014(weeks after purchased new) our Dart has had this habit of failing to crank. This problem ONLY occurs during cold weather below about -10'C, and frequency increases with lower temperatures.

The sequence is usually the same: insert key, turn to "on", hear chatter from dashboard cluster, no sound from fuel pump(first clue that it's not going to start), turn key to "start", nothing else happens. Release key to "run", and notice the dash cluster large red lamp lit, MIL indicator lit, and messages in the cluster about "engine too hot", "service transmission" , and "auto-stick unavailable(or something to this effect)".

I then turn the key to "off", open the door to reset everything, and repeat the starting procedure. Sometimes the car starts on the next attempt, other times the sequence needs to be repeated up to four times to start the car.

The car always drives normally. The 8.4 inch UCONNECT infotainment/nav screen has it's own attitude, but that's probably a post for another day...

I have a code reader, so using it, it always reads these codes: U11D4 U0401 U11D1 U0100

I've offered these codes to my local dealership where this car was purchased and serviced, and they have failed repeatedly to address the issue. At first they blamed it on the transmission module bracket recall, but after the recall repair was finally performed - twice, no difference was noted. Of course the MIL is never ON when it's appointment-time at the dealership, so their talented technicians can never retrieve any useful information, perform any pertinent diagnostics, nor effect any solution. One time, I was finally able to bring the car to their oil change bay WHILE the malfunction indicator lamp was on as per the explicit instructions of the service advisor, they would not allow a technician to look at it and use a diagnostic tool to retrieve the codes and other info previously agreed-upon, and sent me away.

Information about these codes on the internet is sparse. The best I can gather is that they mean that there are communication interruptions or high error-rates in the communication bus between the various powertrain modules. These type of issues are known to be caused by problems usually in connectors, especially ones that are exposed to water, engine heat, or oils. Having worked as a technician, I KNOW that this can be fault-finded using the available manuals from the manufacturer as is standard practise, and the codes should reveal which segments of the CAN network are in error, greatly narrowing-down the scope of diagnostic. Any hack technician could open all connectors, inspect them, apply grease, and probably fix it, but my dealership refuses to try.

I'm really glad that this error hasn't yet interrupted communications of the modules while the car is being driven, as I'm fairly sure it would cause malfunction of whatever operation depends on the information travelling along the bus. Only the service manual could tell me the actual modules and functionality being impacted by the errors and whether they could impact the operation of the car after it's started, But that's proprietary information for which I don't have access.

The extended warranty period for this car is soon to run-out. I'd like to know that it can be fixed before I trade it in, so that I can get maximum value for it. Also, I don't want it to kill any member of my family or anyone else if some powertrain function stops while in operation.

I went to leave work to go to church and my car wouldn't start , nothing at all. It would unlock the radio worked etc. So I Googled to see what could be wrong. Tried different things with my fob , nothing. So I called a good friend to try and jump me, it didn't hardly even want to be jumped . Finally got it started, got home and when I went to get back in again it wouldn't start! It's barely 1yr old! I had just bought it in July of 2014. I should not be having issues already! So I got a battery charger to hook up to it for the night so I could get it started hopefully in the morning to take it to the dealer to see what the deal was. Took it the next morning, supposedly the battery cells were completely fried and I needed a new battery. Really !? It's all brand new came straight off the truck still had plastic on seats etc. At that point I tried trading it back in because it was already having too many problems, dealership refused said lost too much value when I drove it off the lot! Way to take care of your reaccuring customer! I traded in a 2012 dodge ram hemi for it! I buy a new vehicle about every 2-3 yrs and they can't take care of me ?!