Driver's side door will not open, either with the inside door latch or the outside latch. The lock plunger goes up and down normally with either the key, the key remote, or the inside door lock/unlock button, but in no case can either door latch open the driver's side door. All other doors operate normally. This makes entering or exiting the car difficult, necessitating either climbing in/out through the window or by climbing across the console from the passenger seat. If there were an emergency, it would be impossible to exit the vehicle quickly. No event appeared to cause this to happen. I entered the vehicle, drove it, exited the vehicle a few times during the morning before driving, parking, stopping the vehicle, and then having the door stick shut.

- Greer, SC, USA

The central locking system intermittently fails to operate; problem is influenced by temperature extremes (hot and cold); symptoms vary from requiring the driver to lock and unlock the vehicle several times before the doors will unlock to a complete failure of all doors to unlock. When the problem manifests itself, the central electric door lock button (mounted in the center console beside the hazard light switch) is inoperable. BMW crash safety features include mechanical disconnect of door latches when locked; when this particular problem manifests, sometimes the passenger side doors will remain mechanically disconnected, meaning that the doors cannot be opened at all. In a worst case scenario, if the driver's side of the vehicle unusable for escape due to damage or being blocked, the only way to escape from the vehicle is by smashing windows. Bmws are not equipped with a glass break device. The problem seems to be a body module called the GM5, which is mounted above/in front of the glove box; all lock power circuits run through this module; the problem seems to be a voltage drop in the module, resulting in insufficient voltage to the lock mechanisms, as you can hear the locks attempting to cycle when and can see the lock buttons moving when the key fob is used in an attempt to unlock the doors. A google search of the terms "BMW","doors won't unlock" gets at least 10 pages of results on the issue, including several that identify the GM5 module as the cause of the problem and ways to fix it. Repair requires a new GM5 module that needs to be programmed prior to install.

- Marlton, NJ, USA

My vehicle has the same incident about a dozen of times in the last 4-5 years. The vehicle suddenly had check engine light, ABS light, traction control light, and brake light on, engineer started to knocking, speed forced down to less than 30 mph within in seconds. It was quite scaring when the vehicle was on the highway with speed at ~50-70 mpg. My dealer has made several repairs, changing everything in this speed controlling system multiple times according to the book, including throttle body twice, electric harness three times, and control computer unit once, but the problem recurs. Occasionally, resetting the system and/or restarting the car, and sometimes reconnecting every parts of the system can avoid the problem for a while (from a days to 1-2 years). Although it is unpredictable in when, it would come back. The problem seems to come more often when the weather become more wet. This mimics the behavior of the poor electric connections controlling the tails and turning lights of the same model, which was recalled by BMW a couple of years ago. It seems that the same electric connectors are used in this speed controlling system. Obviously, this problem is more dangerous than the signaling light issue since it is more likely to lead to severe accidents/crashes in the highway; I might be dead or severely injured if I did not responded quickly enough when was in I-95 for example.

- Charlottesvillle, VA, USA

I was locked in my car for 1 hour. My key fob would not unlock my doors, so I manually opened the door, started the car, closed the door, and tried to warm up the car (it is winter in Chicago and my windows were also frozen shut). I then pressed the door lock button twice in an attempt to unlock the doors and at that point I learned I was locked in my car. I tried driving the car a block to see if the locks would reset and nothing worked (neither the door levers, key fob or lock button). I called a dealer and they suggested I drive it to the service center. When I arrived at the service center an hour later, my window was no longer frozen so I handed the key to the agent and although the manual door handles and unlock button would not work, the key fob was able to unlock the doors. The agent agreed that there was a problem that needed to be inspected. I drove the car home. Two days later I tried to start the car and the battery was dead. We jumped it and I drove the car to a dealer. The dealer replaced and programmed the general module behind the glove box. They said that it had caused the problem with the doors and drained the battery. The BMW representatives do not seem surprised by the problem, but I was quite frightened by the fact that I had to drive my car while locked inside the vehicle.

- Chicago, IL, USA

This has been an ongoing issue regarding the door locks on my 2003 BMW 325 xi. The doors automatically lock when the vehicle is placed into gear. Which I assume is as designed. ? however the doors will not unlock once the vehicle is placed back in park (engine running or not) neither by manual manipulation of the lock buttons on the doors or by pressing the door unlock switch on the console. " furthermore, with the single exception of the driver"S door, all other door latches are rendered non-functioning (inside and outside of the vehicle) " no one but the drive can open a door to exit the vehicle all doors are rendered inop, you can"T open them from either this inside or the outside O no, the child locks are not engaged. As a member of the fire service and fire marshall for the city of carver, mn I see this as a huge life safety issue. If there were ever a fire, the occupants would not be able to self-extricate (open the door to escape smoke and fire). Furthermore, given the likelihood and great potential for rapid fire spread in car fires in general?. any passengers, children/infants strapped into in car seats in the back seats would most certainly perish. Based on a multitude of consumer complaints on various internet boards, I do not believe this to be an issue specific to my car, but much broader in scope. [xxx] information redacted pursuant to the Freedom Of Information Act (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

- Chaska, MN, USA

The warning light for my passenger side tail light has been going on and off for months as if there is a short in it. It stayed on permanently this month, showing a dimmer light than the working side tail light, so I had it checked when I had the oil changed at my BMW mechanic. He informed me there was a recall for tail light assemblies for my vehicle and told me to call the dealer to check the VIN number. I called the dealer last Friday, June 22, 2012 and was informed that my vehicle was part of the recall and that someone would call to make an appointment for the work. No one called, so I called again today and they said the VIN was not part of the open recall. The tail light is acting like the other tail lights that were recalled so I do not understand how it cannot be part of the recall.

- Baton Rouge, LA, USA

The projector bowls on the zkw headlights were burnt out due to a design flaw. I see lot of complaints online with the same issue. Driving in night is really difficult and dangerous.

- Smyrna, GA, USA

Doors fail to unlock, either using the keyfob, the inside button or manually by pulling the door handle. This is a very dangerous situation as occupants are trapped inside. No method of opening the door work. This appears to be intermittent and eventually the doors unlock mechanism starts working again. The GM5 module seems at fault. This could be very dangerous in an emergency situation.

- Oakland, CA, USA

Multiple intermittent problems with door locks failing to open either by key fob, depressing button inside car, or by pulling inside door handle. To exit car, must lower windows and insert key into outside keyhole. This is a serious hazard! problem arises with no apparent cause, then will disappear a few days later with for no apparent reason. BMW replaced actuator (?) and the problem appears to have disappeared, but it cost me $1400. Other electrical problem is with air bag warning light coming on after car sits undriven for more than a couple of days. Was told that air bags will not work with light on. No reason found. Battery checks out fully charged.

- Greer, SC, USA

Passenger side door and both rear doors failed to open. All three doors remained locked and could not be open from inside by using the mechanical handles. Neither the remote key nor the regular key was able to unlock the doors.

- Ellicott City, MD, USA

My 2003 BMW 325I will not unlock. I cant get into the car. I have tried the key and the fob and the doors will not unlock. I had to break the window to get into the car only to find out the doors still will not unlock. This is a safety issue you cant unlock the doors from the inside or the outside. This is extremely concerning and a true safety issue.

- Oceanside, CA, USA

Doors will not open because door locks will not unlock. Key fob button will not unlock any doors 90% of the time. Most of the time I can only get in car on drivers side with manual operation of driver's side door lock (sticking key in lock and turning). Once in car, 90% of time I still cannot unlock any other doors, even by pulling on door handle (which would ordinarily unlock the door). The interior button to unlock the doors will not work. On Friday, 12/9/11, I could not even get out of the driver's side door when I arrived at my destination. (car is set to automatically engage all locks once I start driving) I had to roll window down and reach out and unlock door with key. When my son and daughter drive with me, they have to get in and out of car either by crawling across driver's seat or go through a window opening. My wife cannot ride in this car now because she may not be able to get out. Due to this defect, passengers are trapped in car. Also, entry into vehicle is delayed (because fob will not unlock doors) which also poses safety risks when parked at night in downtown parking garages. There are five other complaints on NHTSA website on this exact same issue. Recall should be initiated.

- Oceanside, CA, USA

In 2010 the sunroof went bad I talked to a BMW dealer and they told me they have problems with them, in August of 2011 I noticed that my tail lights and blinkers were not working proper, nor was my horn, and the drivers window regulators are binding up, also a brake hose from my brake booster to the engine is collapsed in two spots. ??

- Colton , OR, USA

Right taillamp failure and left taillamp intermittent operation. Electrical system repair: Right rear taillamp connector and bulb carrier corroded. Dealer replaced pigtail harness and bulb carrier with updated design: Socket housing, terminal, contact, cable connector, hose, insulation housing, flat contact, cable socket and bulb socket.

- Des Plaines, IL, USA

Xenon lights went out shortly after the 50,000 mark. Shortly after car kept going into fail safe mode, kept getting low voltage readings on diagnostics. One BMW dealers kept telling me I needed to rebuild transmission. All they would do is plug the car into the computer and see the tranny reading on the scanner. The reason there was a tranny reading was because the car was in fail safe mode. I eventually had the tranny rebuilt and I still had the same issue. I would cycle the ignition and restart the car and car would drive fine. It keeps going into fail safe mode everytime I start the car. Its harder to get it out of fail safe mode in the winter with colder starts.

- El Monte, CA, USA

Ground wire on rear light wiring harness has burnt through damaging plug and socket. Potential for fire. Updated 09/07/11

- Damascus, OR, USA

While travelling on route 50 in Maryland at 55mph engine cut out completely. I lost power steering and brakes. Fortunately, I was able to pull over to side of road, turn off vehicle and restart it. I brought it to the dealership where I purchased it. They cannot diagnose it without at least $1100 worth of work (they think its a transmission problem). After $1100 they state it would be an easy $200 fix or a substantial $6-8000 fix. I will be bringing it to another mechanic for second opinion. I was fortunate I was not in traffic and could pull over safely.

- Washington, DC, USA

I bought my 2003 BMW 325I new. Shortly after the sale I noticed the front drivers xenon light would go out. The only way to get the light back on, is to turn off the car and restart the engine. This works about 80 percent of the time. Another issue I have been experiencing is a false indication that my taillights are out. This is very sporratic and annoying. A third issue I am experiencing is very dangerous relating to my drivers seatbelt. The seatbelt may seam locked, but if you pull with a bit of force, the seatbelt will come out of the locked position.

- New Market, MD, USA

Got a warning from police about drivers side brake light being out. Took it to repair shop to be repaired. Bulb replaced. In less than 12 hours the lights were out again. Took it back to repair shop they pulled the light panel out lights came on. I drove off and the inside warning light came on again. I was told by the repair shop that if the light went out again it was an electrical problem and the panel would have to be replaced.

- Baltimore, MD, USA

Central locking wont work, the key does not open the doors light comes on to say door open but they don't and also driver door opens with key the internal button also does not open the doors, intermittent fault.

- Birmingham, 00, USA