10.0
really awful- Crashes / Fires:
- 3 / 0
- Injuries / Deaths:
- 3 / 0
- Average Mileage:
- 50,021 miles
About These NHTSA Complaints:
The NHTSA is the US gov't agency tasked with vehicle safety. Complaints can be spread across multiple & redundant categories, & are not organized by problem. See the Back button — blue bar at the very top of the page — to explore more.
« Read the previous 20 complaints
Driver-side power door lock in my 2010 Honda CR-V ex-L periodically stops responding to both the interior lock button and the remote key fob button. This could potentially create a dangerous situation where the driver unintentionally opens the door while the vehicle is in motion by pulling the lever from the inside, while under the assumption that the door has been locked. Note that in Honda models, pulling the interior release lever while the door is locked should prevent the door from being opened altogether. This problem could mislead the driver into thinking that all doors have been locked while, in fact, they have not; this also creates a security issue because the door can be opened from the outside as well. Another related problem is the potential for the driver to unintentionally leave the vehicle with an unlocked door, even after pressing the lock button on the remote key fob, which increases the probability of theft and break-ins. A quick internet search reveals many user complaints about power door lock problems in this generation of CR-V, showing a clear pattern of problems with the 2007 - 2011 CR-V. Honda should address this immediately by issuing a recall and warranty extension.
- Kensington, MD, USA
Pull into my garage, applied brake, brake went to the floor and accelerate at the same time. Hit my garage wall causing damage to the wall and car. Turn of car. Drove the car next day, every thing was ok. Check out the brakes on my long drive way, every thing seem ok. When over to a friends house, Monday, again same thing happen, went thru a gasoline station, and the electronic stability controls accelerated, was finally able to stop it, when the brakes return to normal. When we were leaving our friends house, the battery was dead. Had to jump start, every thing was ok driving home. Trying to set up a appointment at the Honda dealer today.
- Atkinson, NH, USA
My 2010 CRV sometimes doesn't start the first time. This happened more frequently over the last 6 months. What happens is when starting the car there will be a "click sound" but not the sound of the starter.....turn the key to the off position and try again and the car starts normally. Always starts normally on the second try. What I heard was a clear buzzing sound coming right from the steering column, near the ignition switch when the key was turned to the start position. No sounds from the engine at all. The sound was like an electrical buzz. After turning the key on and off three times, then the car started normally with no buzzing coming from the steering column. In searching the web, there are other crvs that report the same thing--abnormal sound at first start and then perfectly normal starts on the second try. This is the third time I took my CRV to Honda dealer for the same problem. First time, battery was replaces. Second time, relay was replaced. No problem fixed.
- Folsom, CA, USA
Gears began to crunch and the car began to shake. Slowed down at a light and lost the power steering. Pulled over and the engine stalled. Could not re-start for 10 minutes. Engine then re-started, traveled approx. 10 meters and stalled. Re-started again - no further problems. 2 similar occurrences, 2 months apart. For the first event, the car went off the road. On each occasion the dealership stated they had checked everything and there was nothing wrong with the car. Took it for a second opinion. Dealership had not checked recall 11-001 (January, 2011). They checked it, but again found no issue.
- Shippensburg, PA, USA
2010 Honda CRV. Consumer states two weeks after purchasing the vehicle, she began to experience throttle lag, or acceleration delay while merging on to the expressway. The dealer informed the consumer the problem was due to electrical impulses resulting from the construction and engineering of the vehicle.
- Floral Park, NY, USA
We were driving on highway about 65 mph and without notice the dashboard light disappeared and the speedometer indicated 0 mph even though we were going about 65 mph. We decelerated and the speedometer remained 0. we pulled to the side turned engine off and restarted and every thing was normal after that. Called the dealer with no follow up.
- San Ramon, CA, USA
- Tustin, CA, USA