2011 Nissan Altima 2.5L SL. Car was running and has the push button start. Car shut off and would not start up again. The doors won't lock no electrical components will work such as windows, headlights, or radio. All that happens is I receive a key lock symbol and when I press the brake to start it as it comes up on the display, it does nothing but make a clicking sound. Ignition stays in the on position. Did a little research and a lot of complaints point to the steering lock. The car has 180,000 miles on it. Don't think it is worth trying to fix at this point.

The Electronic Steering Lock Column has quit working on my 2011 Nissan Altima. I was stranded in the grocery store parking lot, in the snow, with my screaming 5 month old. There is a service campaign for this same issue for 2009-2010 models. Nissan knows there is a problem yet refuses to repair. I would have at least like to have been informed of the issue, even if my car wasn't part of the campaign. I could have then taken precautionary measures to prepare, as opposed to being left in the cold with a baby. Since the same piece is still used in other model years, why aren't they covered under the campaign as well?

Have been to 3 shops and several visits. 2 parasitic tests done at dealership and pepboys and battery checks at nissan, pepboys and les schwab tires. Pepboys and Les schwab said battery is fine and was only 1 yr old at the time. Nissan says it is bad and wants to charge $160 for a new one. Les Schwab says it's the alternator. So here we are today on March 1, 2016 with this car having plenty of power yet not starting every once in a long while. Going back to the dealership for a 3rd time to have them say they ran a test and it's the battery and 3 other places saying it is not. Yes we have a warranty in effect which maybe why they refuse to help us at the dealership.

Update from Apr 4, 2016: So upon doing some research on optima.com and motorweek.com I have come to the conclusion that the battery's the shops have been giving me don't have enough CCA cold cranking amps. They gave me 550 and I needed no less than 650. I have as of today switched my battery out at pepboys in exchange for higher cranking amps. Another problem is the computer draws 10 amps by itself without the car being turned on. Once you walk up to your altima with key on you the computer senses it in your car and starts reading it zapping you of just enough battery juice not to start. The final problem is the alternators are not delivering the volts necessary for this power hungry car. The car needs 14 volts of continuous power and instead delivers 12.80 volts. Because it is over 12 volts the dealership refuses to replace it under warranty. So in the end you have a power grabbing computer, not enough CCAs and an alternator that won't deliver.