My wife got a 2001 Buick LeSabre and the light buttons stick so the lights wont turn off. I have finally managed to pop the buttons out with a pair of tweezers and some WD40. However this caused the battery to go dead (We think... it had 0 cold cranking amps but we haven't gotten everything checked out yet). There was a similar complaint on this website that mentioned that the alternator for their car was running too high and this caused the battery to die faster. We will be taking the car to Advance Auto Parts tomorrow to have them take a look at it.

I purchased this vehicle for my wife on the 9th of September, 2013 in Dallas, Texas. The car had 27,943 original miles. Yes that is correct... Original miles was due to a one owner fellow who was probably 109 years old. J/k - Basically, an older guy. We drove car to San Antonio, Texas and everything seemed fine.

A few days later after fixing the Headlamps and Parking Lamps Switch, temporarily. My wife tried to start but no click. I initially tried to jump the battery from under the hood (note: battery located under rear seat - pops off from front middle of bench seat by pulling up firmly - just has two hooks), can jump in front of car under hood near fuse box (Red terminal post, then ground negative black cable to frame of car). It would not jump after half a dozen attempts. I tried relocating negative ground but to no avail.

After 30 minutes decided to call it quits. Figured there was either something causing the drain of the battery or the starter was out of order. Then I tried at the last resort pulling off rear cushion to jump the battery direct.

It worked. I allowed the car and my SUV to hopefully recharge the battery for 30 minutes. Long story short. Next day, car would not start. I disconnected the battery terminals (8mm wrench or socket), pulled off the vent ports (Hoses) at the sides of the battery and also removed the hold-down clamp at the bottom. (if you see them - you'll know what I mean).

I took the battery to be recharged slowly and rechecked. It was determined it was no good. It lasted 48 months out of 85 months. A Surprising short life. The battery was an Interstate Battery from Wal-Mart or SAM's.

(Sigh) I decided to go with a new battery of the same kind considering it was a tight fit under the rear seat. The battery was a special order from Interstate Battery. The cost was a whopping $200.00. Even the guys behind the counter were surprised. Anyways, I replaced new battery back into its proper place (Be sure you get battery type 100-1 with 770 cold crank amps (CCA). Don't use a battery without the vent ports (Hoses) hooked up to sides of battery because the fumes will destroy your rear seat.

It ran beautifully until....

Note before I continue: I bought a cigarette lighter gadget from O'Reilly's Auto Parts Store to monitor battery. It states (according to labels & lights) the alternator is charging too high... Hence the reason it may have boiled the acid in battery causing it to have a short life. Considering the battery was not an original battery which I believe was an AC Delco and it had an Interstate Battery tells me this would be at the minimum the third battery replaced in 28K miles.

On a different post, I will share whether it is the alternator, alternator regulator (not sure if it is internal or external - still researching), or something else. Not yet diagnosed it completely. But according to the gadget it is overcharging at an average of 14.8 volts. it normally should be between 13.8 to 14.2.

I'll keep you posted.

There are other issues you can check out by me, BigHenry911, on this vehicle.

By the way, I am not a mechanic nor claim to be one. Just frustrated and challenged to address the issues without having to pay the big bucks. Well in this case, I did with a $200 battery. I guess with the #1 battery in the USA, it's going to be costly.

I hope this helps.

Please share if it you like.

Battery randomly goes dead. After a day and after just having been driven. Even remote will not work. Battery and alternator tested OK. Monitor gauge shows 14.8 Volts. Having to carry extra jumper battery in trunk. Fuel gauge quit working properly last summer.

Update from Mar 1, 2010: Had to replace a back door window motor for $400 a few months ago. Last time car was serviced (last fall) they said all the recalls had been done on the car. I guess the battery issue is not big enough for a recall.

And who's the idiot that mounted the front turn signal lamps so that part of the front end has to be removed to change the bulbs?? But it's a good great handling car, just a few bugs to fix..

Update from Oct 29, 2010: Buick dealer offered no solution other than to do a $100 diagnostic (even though Buick already has a bulletin on this). Suggested the computer might need to be reprogrammed for another $100.

On a hunch I shut off the night lighting delay function and no more dead batteries.

Of course they want $100 for a new switch. No - I'll just leave the setting on minimum (off) as the control is a timer.