8.7
pretty bad- Typical Repair Cost:
- $40
- Average Mileage:
- 127,950 miles
- Total Complaints:
- 3 complaints
Most common solutions:
- not sure (2 reports)
- replace vacuum fittings (1 reports)
This car has not had any problems until recently and has been a real pain. It started off hesitating while driving and then it would stall out occasionally. Keeping your foot on the gas keeps it from stalling but there's no power. It doesn't happen all the time and we've had the fuel filter changed out and the spark plugs done. When all seems okay two weeks would go by and the hesitating would start up again.
- warneke, Universal City, TX, US
DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD THE CAR WILL STALL. THERE IS NO APPARENT REASON FOR THIS TO HAPPEN. BUT IT IS VERY SCARY. Can anyone tell me what this is doing this for? HELP.
- Hattie D., Napoleon, MI, US
click to see larger images
I had owned my Regal which I loved very dearly for about a month when I would go to accelerate and the motor would stutter and feel like it was losing power until shutting off shortly after. The reason I rated this issue so bad wasn't even the motor itself, but the fact that when the motor would shut off, I would lose power steering and power brakes. The thing about losing power steering is that it's worse than driving a car that didn't come with power steering because the computer naturally expects most of the effort to be done with the power steering so you must work twice as hard to steer. My Buick stalled about 5 times but only when I was going in a straight line and in the range of 30-45 MPH under acceleration, which allowed me to put my hazards on and fly into a parking lot to stop. We thought it was the mass air flow sensor, so we had it replaced at the cost of $250 at a local mechanic.
The ACTUAL solution:
A week later the stalling returned, and under closer inspection, I noticed that there were two rubber connectors to a vacuum line that were cracked and dried out. The first one is connected to the throttle body and was cracked (labelled in photo "broken air line at throttle body" and being pointed to), while the second is on the other end of the vacuum line and is labelled "Broken L-Shaped connector at fuel pressure regulator." I went to the Buick dealer and they wanted I believe $35 for them together. I decided to go to a junkyard and got the two connectors which they gave to me for free. I went out, replaced the old connectors and it never stalled again. On top of that I gained average 2 MPG from this so yay me!
- Chayton G., Royal Oak, MI, US