Driver's side cable that supports the tailgate rusted out and broke suddenly due to corrosion inside the coating. With the tailgate down, I was climbing back out of the truck, stepping back off the tailgate when it snapped suddenly. I am over 65 years old, and when it gave, I almost fell off. I do not understand why NHTSA has not required Chevrolet to make a recall and provide 1998 S-10 owners with repair of the obviously faulty cables.

- Raleigh, NC, USA

Warning systems on vehicle are inoperative resulting in engine damage.** answer required***

- Caldwell, KS, USA

The steel cable that supported my spare tire under my truck's body broke (it was rusted out) while driving on a major highway. I was able to retrieve all parts (tire, cable toggle and tire retainer), and no other cars were damaged since they swerved to avoid the debris. The rusted toggle shows that only three strands of cable were unrusted when it broke, with more than 90% of the remaining cable rusted away. If someone wants to look at the toggle I will mail it, let me know. In my opinion, stainless steel should have been used, since this cable is exposed to all roadway spashing.

- Clarence, NY, USA

There was a problem with the cable that supports the spare tire from the base of the vehicle. Without warning this cable snapped, causing the spare tire to fall from under the base of the vehicle.

- Buford, GA, USA

Vehicle was taken to mechanic for service, engine check light being on, mechanic found fuel being pushed through wiring and into computer. Vehicle had a 4.3 vortex engine. Mechanic believed pressure regulater to be at fault. When the computer was unplagged gasoline ran out of PCM due to injector assembly failure.

- Cookville, TN, USA

This could hae been a serious accident. I drive 200 miles/day and 140 of those at interstate speeds. No safety defect mentione in summary.

- Delaware, OH, USA

No summary listed for above vehicle.

- Lake Grove, NY, USA

No summary listed for above vehicle.

- Jacksonville, FL, USA

Dangerous horn design. Horn won't honk when you press the left side of the "horn ring" unless you exert enormous thumb pressure. It requires so much muscle pressure that in a sudden emergency, it would be almost impossible to blow the horn on the left side of the steering wheel -- even if you press hard where the horn symbol indicates you are supposed to press on the left. (the right side is much easier to blow -- no problem there.) we took it to sullivan Chevrolet in roseville to request a manufacturer's warranty repair, but the service rep told us they have tried unsuccessfully to repair this design defect but have found that if they adjust the spring looser, then the horn tends to honk everytime you hit a bump. Unless the manufacturer makes a special repair kit available to correct this defect, the dealer indicated they cannot successfully repair it. A California highway patrol officer agreed that it creates a dangerous safety defect if you cannot easily blow the horn in a sudden emergency. Sullivan Chevrolet said the problem is the way Chevrolet designed the horn to fit over or around the driver's side airbag in the steering wheel. Some other manufacturers wisely put totally separate, independent electrical horn buttons on either side of the driver's side airbag to avoid interfering with the airbag, but Chevrolet overlays a large, one-foot wide, spring-loaded horn-blowing bar across the top of the airbag which pivots to the left and right, depending on where you press to blow the horn. It pivots ok to the right, but, as I said, it takes enormous thumb pressure to blow it on the left side. An elderly person would find it virtually impossible to blow the horn on the left -- which is the side most right-handed people would use, as they tend to use the right hand to steer. The horn will blow if you shift your hand to the very center of the steering shaft directly over the airbag -- but this loses precious time in a sudden emergency. It frightens me.

- Loomis, CA, USA

No summary.

- Buffalo, ND, USA