I had the same problem as many here. I bought the car in November 2015 for $1600. Great for a year, "service engine soon" light on since I bought it but knew it would need work so waited for symptoms. It would stall and die at lights or parking sometimes, so when I had some money I took it in. They couldn't make the issue present itself, so the next time it happened it didn't start and I had it towed in. $900 for distributor, $500 for tune up and valve cover gaskets and a couple hoses in the back of the motor to the heater.

Problem came back a week later and the took it back at the shop towing at their expense. This time it was reading funny on the tach and dying in motion and they diagnosed the crank sensor which was another 440 dollars.

Such a fun car. I'm $4000 in now it's been fixed for a couple weeks. It should be known this is an 18 year old car so things will need work.

If you love these, this is the best years with the Mitsubishi motor. I also have the LHS and Town and Country currently, all 99's.

With routine maintenance and replacing parts these vehicles are a bargain. Chryslers are as reliable as the people who take care of them.

Love your cars, complain less.

This car is a death trap and Chrysler should be ashamed of themselves!! I can be driving 50mph, and all of a sudden Rpms will shoot to zero and car loses all power, the brakes and power steering also go! This is so dangerous! I've taken the car to 3 mechanics and none of them can find a problem.

Sometimes it restarts right away and sometimes it stalls for days. I've contacted Chrysler and those careless a##holes won't even return my phone calls regarding the issue. I'm thinking I might have to take legal action. Especially because I have read hundreds of reports of people having the same issue. This problem is dangerous and can cause death!!! This really needs to be investigated!

The initial onset of this problem was the car would cut-off, engine dies, on highway at 70 mph and then restart automatically by forward motion. It would also cutoff in traffic and I would have to pull-over and sh*t into neutral or park and restart, which it would do immediately. I took it to a local highly respected shop and they found that oil had seeped up into the distributor so it was replaced with a new unit, as was the cap, module, etc. Then the problem shifted to not a complete electrical shut off, but a miss-fire and the engine continues to run. It seems more prevalent during extremely hot weather. Then the shop per my authorization replaced all plug wiring and plugs last week. I have the same problem, not a total electrical shut off, but like a miss-fire and the car continues to run. On occasion, it will die at a light, but will restart immediately. HELP.

Hi, my name is David Gieswein and I am an ASE certified chrysler tech. I happen to buy this 1999 sebring with the 2.5L mitsubishi engine from my brother. The car started to have idle and an occasional dying at the light. No codes though. Without success, I replaced the fuel pump, fuel psi reg, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, TPS sensor, and intake gasket. Still the misfires persisted until I finally got a code P1391- Intermittent loss of CMP or CKP. This code specifically sets when the cam signal generated does not fall in the range expected from the PCM. I lab scoped both the Cam and Crank signals and they looked great when the car dies. What you can not see is that the distributor drive gear pin hole has worn and is causing the cam signal to become out of spec. You can buy a reman distributer from O'reileys for around $350 with lifetime waranty. This is the third time I have replaced the distributor. The problem is the gear material itself. It looked like cast aluminum. The new reman had a stronger looking drive gear. Trust me people, this is the hardest problem I have experienced yet. It can make even the most experienced techs look like beginners! Any questions? Email me davidtgieswein@hotmail.com.

I love my 99 Sebring Conv. Limited. It drives great and engine problems didn't occur until 120k miles. The "low oil" light at low RPM's (idle) was fixed with a change to Mobil 1 synthetic.

Next:

The Car motor suddenly stopping on the Freeway and lucky to get over to the side lane safe was due to the abrupt failure of the Fuel pump and it was costly. They need to remove your Fuel Tank to get to it.

Next:

The motor erratically stopping under load is the distributor. I was told by my mechanic that it is difficult to replace and the part is expensive (over $230). I got the part on e-Bay for $120 and just will bare to put it in myself. This part should be recalled since they fail catastrophically and put the driver in high risk situations.

Hoping this covers the worst of the problems but I don't know and I will read all of the complaints to be ready for the next. I still think the car is super but can't a domestic $28,000 dollar car last to 200k miles before the big fixes come in??

I've spent almost $1200 to fix this car and it's still sitting in my driveway. The car randomly cuts off while driving or sitting in traffic. Fuel pump was checked and I was told it was the distributor. Bought a new distributor and the next morning I was stuck in traffic. The car did it again. It stays off for 45 minutes. It's been on every diagnostic machine and nothing shows up. Diagnostic machine shows that everything is fine. All the sensors are in working order. Once it cut off it's good for that day. It's frustrating because you don't know if it's going to cut off in the morning or afternoon, while driving or while idling in traffic. My son's starting to enjoy watching the car get towed. Four mechanics couldn't charge me anything because they couldn't find the problem!

Car will shut off on its own periodically. Also, sometimes when I start it, it sputters and when I try to hit the gas pedal, it's as if I'm doing nothing!!! Everytime it shuts down on it's own, I have to pull over or hit my hazard lights and put it in park to shut it off to get it to start again. Sometimes it starts right back up and sometimes it takes a while!!!! It is soooo frustrating, annoying and frustrating!!! One time, I couldn't get it to start at all, so I had to get it towed to the dealership. I've been to about 4 or 5 places, but everytime I take it in to get the problem resolved, it always acts like it's just fine.....which REALLY ticks me off!!!! From reading other complaints, I'm going to get a rebuilt distributor from a friend who can install it for approximately 200 something dollars. When I took it to the dealership, they couldn't diagnose it and they MAKE the freakin' car!!!! DUH!!! I think this should be a recall and they should fix all the sebrings that have the same problem!!!! I thought for a while my car was haunted or possessed, but now I know it's most likely the distributor and will look into that.

Car would die randomly--at intersections, while parking, etc. Usually happened after getting warmed up. One time it died while driving 70 on the interstate!

When I let it cool down for a while, it would start back up again. Thought my car was possessed! LOL

Thought it might be a fuel problem, so I replaced the fuel pump. Didn't work. Thought it might be the crank sensor, so I replaced it. Didn't work......3rd time is a charm--replaced distributor--WORKED!! By the way, the distributor is very expensive and it is a non-serviceable part. What a bitch!

My advice? Go to an after-market store; dealer wanted about $900.00. YEAH RIGHT CHRYSLER!!