Have been having many issues with windshield wipers stopping working all of a sudden and sometimes do not work for days. With NO warning windshield wipers will stop in the middle of the windshield and stutter. While attempting to rotate wiper switch they may move a little and if you turn them off they will continue to stutter across windshield. Sometimes they work normal. I have been doing a lot of research and this issue is all over the internet. Chrysler apparently refuses to admit there is an issue with a faulty TIPM. Today I experienced a total power failure while driving. Everything stopped working while driving....NO Wipers, Turn signals, headlights, brake lights, instrument panel. Pulled into a parking lot after almost getting rear ended while turning. Turned car off restarted a few times and then everything started working except wipers. Someone is going to get killed if this issue is not addressed!!

The electrical has been acting stupid since I purchased it (used) and dealership never helped at all The lights that come on , go off after a week or so and then another comes on ABS and engine and tire pressure lights and airbag (passenger) seemed to be the 4 that alternate so far. Door locks don't auto lock anymore until you push lock button or drive 5 or so miles down the road and circuit doesn't break when doors are opened and key off. Passenger airbag light has come on /off since 2nd week of buying and they said it was because of weight on passenger seat (nobody sits there.) Low tire light sometimes comes on but tires aren't low on pressure, have had them checked. Sometimes ac blows cold, sometimes ho. Same thing with heat, sometimes hot others cold. They say no problem with thermostat water is moving. Can turn temperature knob back n forth and temp alternates back to where it needs to be. They want too much to just diagnose and then way too much an hour to trace down the possible problem. Has anyone else had these issues ?

I would go to crank up my car and it wouldn't start. It would take almost 12 times worth of cranking to get it to start, leaving myself and my small child sitting in the heat/cold weather til it started. DODGE DEALERSHIP, told me it was the starter motor, therefore, I bought a starter motor for $80.00 and paid an auto mechanic to put it in for an additional $100.00. My car still wouldn't crank. I had to get it towed to the DODGE dealership where they then charged me $100.00 to put it on a diagnostics machine, then $465.00 to replace a computer board, then $150.00 to order a new key. I am yet to know if this is the main problem, because it is in the shop til Thursday with this problem.

I noticed one day that the car is having a little bit of electrical problems. This was my fault considering that I did no research on the car before purchasing, and also considering that they revived the car after 8 years of discontinued use, which means problems WILL emerge often then would a continuous production car. Again that is my fault.

HOWEVER, when at 21,000 miles to 31,000 and your already noticing problems with the electrical, many problems can emerge. Since cars tend to rely soley on CPU's, that means electrical problems now can lead to much more severe consequences in the future. But thankfully, I have a 85,000 mile extended warranty, so I will be A. OK (I think).

Anyway, here are the problems that come about:

1.When I attempt to use the blinking lights to switch lanes, and snap it back to where lights do not flash, it still flashes anyway. So people think i'm an idiot on the road whenever I switch my lights and I am on the highway.

2.Highbeams tend to be a little frustration because, when I use my blinker, sometimes my highbeams come on, and as some people know thats a indication that you are trying to be a a**hole on the road, which in fact I just wanted to switch lanes.

3.And one day I noticed my car was making weird sounds and was not moving right. So I got nervous and turned it off to see what was the problem. I checked the engine, and saw nothing wrong with the car. As I unlocked my car and opened the door, my alarm went off. I kept trying to turn it off and it was like I was trying to steal my own car, lol. I used various methods, used my key alarm to turn it off. Turn on the car, turn off the lights, finally when I turned it back on, the alarm stopped. And it is funny, because I noticed this problem when I was test driving the car for the first time, again my fault.

4. Another problem to mention, that when I turn I notice that the car makes a noticeable pitch noise. Like it sounded like when zipping up a tent, but its coming from outside. I don't know what it is, but thought I would let you know. and no I am not turning fast, it makes that noise whenever I turn.

So what I feel is that if you really want this car, go for it. but make sure you get a warranty, and when your SMW is about to go out, diagnose it like you are trying to look for a refund and take it to the dealership and have them check it out and fix it.

Update from Jul 23, 2009: 33,000 Miles.

What I have done so far....

1.Changed Oil Every 4k Miles (Synthetic Only Oil)

2.Premium Gas 93 Octane

3.Added Premium Sound System

4.Added Muffler System

Driving Style: 1. Cautious, Stay at speed Limit. 2. Accelerate Faster Then Usual User (But don't squeel tires) 3. Stop Sooner then most, but not to a screeching halt, like stop 1/2x later.

Sounds???? a. Clicking Noise Coming From Engine, (Best Described that bolt is coming loose as I am driving, and on idle) -Checked Oil, Measured at 5L, added 5.5 Total (Oil Changer Changed it) 10 days after oil changer changed it. Sound was eliminated. 1 week later, a lighter clicking noise emerged while driving but NOT on idle). Keeps Reoccuring. I asked the Dealership if they cover EVEN if I keep driving it,

"Yes, as long as its still under the 36,000 Mile Warranty." -Mind you I have the 85,000 Ext. Warranty

b. Clicking also was emerging on the dashboard. Attempted to slam it to see if anything was loose, failed. This is a intermitten event happening.

c. Just occured to my mind that when 1st purchased the car, I could not even tell if the car was turned on when twisted the key for ignition. Now, I can tell. Yes, I did add a new muffler system. But the engine is shaking my car, feels like my old Neon 04' SXT.

d. Researched some reviews about this car. Mostly all positive reviews, except one driver that seems to have the same type and model as mine, and his oil is being eaten. He has to keep adding Oil every few hundred miles (his is at the same milage as mine). He checked with the Dealership for additional warranty assistance. They found no fault, so instead they changed a part but nothing came from the reviewer so far. When I have time I will take it in for repair.

Conclusion: I am going to flush out my engine to see if there is any sign of build up from the inside of the Engine. If that is so, YOUR WARRANTY WILL NOT COVER ENGINE SLUDGE, EVEN IF THE ENGINE ITSELF IS CAUSING THE HEAT VISCOSITY DAMAGES. And I WILL use a better form of Synthetic Oil then AMSOIL, and add a filter that is premium AND add magnets to the filter to catch any metallic forms that are circulating through the system. If this fails, I will immediately take it to the dealership. NO THEY WILL NOT GIVE YOU A REPLACEMENT CAR, its not within your warranty, however they will give you a ride to your choice as long as its before 4:30p.m AS A COURTESY.

Additional Thoughts: If you believe you are having the same problem, gather your receipts of oil changes/purchases to ensure the dealership that you are taking proper care of your car to prevent any quarrels or fingers pointing where it should not be at.