Like Simon, I had to remove the left wheel, take off the air dam, and prop up the radiator on jack stands to take the alternator out. I had it tested and the test only showed marginal degradation of the output. The last one I had the dealer change only faiIed when hot. I assumed this one was the same. So I changed it anyway. Two weeks later, the battery dies. I removed the right wheel and the front well panel, the air cleaner and changed the battery. About ten days later, new battery is drained. My multi-meter shows me I have and short from the hot lug on the power distribution panel and the body. I can't find the sonofabitch!

The alternator went bad in the car two days after we bought it from an as-is lot. Of course, this makes it difficult to have the lot fix it, unless you want to pay huge amounts of money and time for some captain ineptitude mechanic to "fix" your problem. They sent it to a mechanic who, of course, changed the alternator out for us. It worked fine for as long as it took the new battery to drain out of energy. Back to square one. Three times. Then, someone, (MOI), found the exposed wire that was supposed to have insulation on it, grounded out to the frame of the vehicle. Oh, and did I mention that unless you remove the front bumper, the transmission cooler, the radiator brace, the radiator (only partway) and assorted wiring and tubing, that you won't even be able to see the alternator? This car is not good for the do-it-yourself mechanic, never mind any one else. SAVE YOURSELF ENDLESS PAIN...... GO BUY A FORD OR CHEVY, AT LEAST YOU CAN CHANGE YOUR OWN ALTERNATOR!!!