5.0
fairly significant- Typical Repair Cost:
- $7,600
- Average Mileage:
- 115,000 miles
- Total Complaints:
- 2 complaints
Most common solutions:
- not sure (1 reports)
- replace engine (1 reports)
Bought the car used. Problem occurred the very next morning.
Engine: The video is for a Charger, but same engine, same problem, but the person's solution in the video did not solve my problem. I've seen and read from others having the same problem regardless of car model. It's the 3.5 engine. Knocks when cold then it would go away after warmed up. Dealer says engine was fried and could go any day. However, I've been driving it for 3 years with no problems. I replaced the timing belt, replaced the rocker arm assemblies. One day the knock changed to a horrible rattling sound. It sounds like the crank bearings are all fried or the bearings or the A/C pulley are trashed (Doubt that at this point, but sounds similar). At this point I'm thinking a faulty timing chain tensioner (hydraulic piston thingamajig). Will know this weekend when I replace the tensioner and tension pulley again. I can faintly still hear the knock when cold. The rattle is so loud I'm not sure if the knock is still there.
Suspension: There are so many 3.5's that have this problem there's definitely a design flaw somewhere. Dodge always has some issue. Control arms and strut tensioner (which looks like a form of control arm also) wear out really fast. I have to replace mine almost annually. Cost to fix this is about $500-$600, and that's just the parts.
Ignition: The ignition recall is a problem as well. Sometimes I try to start the car and it just won't start, or it will start, but my tail lights, radio, and dash lights won't work.
Heating System: Imagine driving down the road and within 5 seconds every window inside the car immediately becomes fogged (no visibility). Problem: Windows fog up on the inside, and super fast. Very dangerous. Intrepid has same problem...dealer couldn't fix (apparently). Air recycling door stuck in recycling mode. Solution: Had the air recycling door forced to use outside air. Cost to repair wasn't worth it to me at the time.
Transmission: I realize some people are just too dumb to be checking and filling transmissions fluid, but to not allow the owner to check their own transmission fluid is enough to make me want to sue them for insulting my intelligence. Dodge transmissions are better than the old days, but still have issues and "REQUIRE" expensive/frequent maintenance.
I love the car, but like my Dodge Intrepid....it's a money pit.
- exponentis, Madison, WI, US
In 11/2014 I had to have my water pump replaced ($1,764 dollars, about sh*t my pants!) due to leakage problem. Eight months, 5,000 miles later my engine started knocking - I took it to the dealer and they are now telling me that I need to get a new engine at the whopping price of $7,600!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
* you can read all about the water pump gasket leakage problem in 2.7 V6 engines at: http://www.allpar.com/mopar/V6/27.html
HERE'S WHAT I DISCOVERED:
The biggest problem with 2.7 V6 engines is/was the water pump gasket leaking coolant internally and diluting the oil. Most so-called “sludge monsters†suffer a slowly leaking gasket that continually seeps coolant into the oil; others fail quickly. Either way, the oil is contaminated. This can be observed by an owner. [The best way to fix such an engine is] to find a mechanic who has intimate knowledge of 2.7s and has observed/repaired this problem.
The original design water pump gasket was a metal separator plate with a silicone like sealing surface that should have been dependable but had a history of failing. The redesigned gasket was a more conventional type that didn’t use the separator plate and a matching water pump that seems to have solved the problem. Ironically, the 2.7 water pump had two weep holes, but these were only effective if the water pump itself was leaking, not the gasket.
It must be addressed instantly or engine failure is imminent. I can't stress how important it is to find someone experienced with 2.7s, as even many dealers are/were somewhat afraid of these engines.
Two contributing problems are: 1. A new water pump is sometimes installed without removing the original separator plate as it looks like it is part of the engine and the result is further problems. 2. Many water pump kits included new chains, guides and sprockets but the cam sensor notch was in the wrong place and the engine would not start after repairs. That has no doubt been rectified but certainly contributed to the 2.7 reputation
- tfolsom93, Costa Mesa, CA, US