On October 19, 2020 my grandchildren and I where traveling back home from san diego, ca to Georgia and as we where driving on hwy 20 in Texas, I hit a bump the car became very difficult to steer. I slowly drove the car to kilgore, Texas took the care to automotive super center 1505 us hwy 259 North business kilgore, tx 75663. Chandler gordy said he would check it out and call me. Chandler called me and gave me the report (see attached report). Chandler stated that to fix that unit it cost over $2,000 it is very expensive I couldn't afford to have it done. I asked him what he could do so that we could get back home he said he would try and reset the sensor. Chandler reset it & we had to be careful because it might go out again and to be very careful. 10/23/2020 slowly drove homethe next day 10/26/2020 I took the car to my mechanic at cartech automotive he checked it out called me and said there was a recall on the car and to come get the car and take it to Ford so that they can fix it. I took the car to loganville Ford 3460 highway 78 loganville ga 30052 770-554-9994. I spoke with brian and upon his examination of the VIN# there was no recall on my car and that if I wanted the car checked out I would have to pay $235 to have them check it.I then went and called Ford Motor Company customer relationship center 866-436-7332 and spoke with dana who stated that on August 4, 2014 the car was brought in and they reprogrammed the power-steering sensor/module it was reset not replaced. I told dana that this is a recall and the unit was to be replaced not reset & dana said that they have the best high tech programming systems. It was reset not replaced, dana said yes & that there is nothing else they could do for me. I then called 888-327-4236 and spoke with lavenia did my report. Ford is unwilling to replace the recall unit 14S05/NHTSA recall 14V-284.

- Covington, GA, USA

When driving for as little as ten minutes and other times longer, my truck will lose power while driving and I will start to feel the truck slow up. Then when trying to accelerate I can only get up to 20 mph. Also if I take my foot off the gas, without putting my foot on the brake, it'll come to a halt. It does go over 2,500 RPM on a good day. I cant take off fast even if I wanted to. The only code that has come up when dealing with my issue is the catalyic converter. I have replaced my O2 sensors and got a new converter on but still having the same problem. I even replaced the throttle to see if that would help and it has not. No one has been able to help me figure out the issue. I have taken it to reputable shops and mechanic and spent a ton of money trying to resolve my issues. I am fearful for my safety and my son's safety not knowing when it will lose power. I cant even hold a job at the time being because of this issue with my truck.

- Memphis, TN, USA

All the warning lights have been persistently coming on since Aug. 2019. The speedometer stops working, all the warning lights come on, while driving, I have no clue how fast I'm going"?" I can no longer start the car without having to push the thob's security lock buttons to lock/unlock for it to start. I took it to my auto mechanic at sam's auto in waterford, who thought he fixed it no problem, but I drove it off his lot, and its still doing it. That was after several attempts until now. Sam and terry think I could be in danger. I spoke to my insurance agent who said I needed to contact you about the recalls on the SUV. It's scary, and I've only had this car since 2018 when I bought it. In fact, I am copying this report to my files 12/08/2019, and to send to my insurance company. I don't feel safe in my car, and would like it repaired, so that I can trade it in, or just get rid of it. Thank you, I did call you earlier this year about this car. I had been told for sometime by my friends to contact you about this vehicle because of the many recalls. [xxx] information redacted pursuant to the Freedom Of Information Act (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).

- Clarkston, MI, USA

My electric power assist system stopped working and was unable to turn the wheel to drive - I only have 70,000 miles on my Ford Escape - I was parking my car when the light went off then when I got back in the car I was unable to steer the vehicle. I tried calling Ford and they were unable to help.

- Somerville, MA, USA

While I was driving I heard a click and lost my power steering. It came back and then off again. I had to pull over and turn off my ignition. I waited a few minutes and re-started it, it again kept going back and forth between power and manual steering while driving at 35 mph down back roads to my home.

- Loudon, NH, USA

While driving my 2010 Ford Escape XLS 4 cylinder, the truck stalled and cut off during driving. Lucky I was able to pull to the side of the road. I started the truck back after 30 minutes, the truck drove and again with no warning the truck started to stall and cut off. The just started to happen out of no where. I bought the truck used and still paying on it. The warranty that I purchased ran out at the beginning of this year. This was a very dangerous situation; this happen right during rush hour traffic and by the grace of god I was able to pull to the side. I did manage to get the truck home but after reading multiple complaints regarding the same issue, I feel like this should of been looked into by Ford for a possible recall. From what I am getting this is from a known issue with early model Ford Escapes "electric throttle body". I was on a street when this occurred while driving straight at 34 to 40 miles per hour.

- Milwaukee, WI, USA

Tested code P2119 at auto zone. Throttle body assembly shows bad. Car began to surge and jerk at times while traveling down the road at a steady speed. At times would seem to stall and then surge forward as if throttle had been depressed. The speed at which I was traveling did not seem to make a difference. It would happen at any speed for no apparent reason. Have quit driving till I have the funds to get repaired. Appx. Repaiir cost $200 with the part cost at $140

- Harlingen, TX, USA

Like millions of other Ford Escape owners, I have a big problem with the throttle body on my 2010 Ford Escape limited V6. First I completely lost all propulsion/acceleration while driving at approx. 35mph. Coasted to side of road, turned engine off. Turned engine on and voila! runs just fine. Several weeks later, at 75mph full loss of propulsion on a major highway, coasted to side of road, turned engine off. Turned engine on and voila! runs just fine, until about 5miles down the road when it happened again. Then about another 3wks later, it happened again on a backroad in nc at about 60mph. This trip it happened several times and finally once I got parked and turned the engine off and back on (just to check), the check engine light came on. When I left my location, praying I'd make it home, no engine light, but now the wrench light came on. Stopped for gas (I had too, I was traveling through the country) and when I restarted the vehicle, no engine light or wrench light indicator. This problem has happened again on two more occasions yet neither problem indicator light has illuminated. I've had the truck "computer scanned" with no error/problem codes showing up. I've called 2 different dealerships, who told me "flat out"...no problem lights/code...no fix under the "customer service extended warranty. You'll have to pay out of pocket. Millions of these vehicles have been given the so called "customer service extended warranty" yet the stipulations it makes it virtually impossible to obtain the necessary repairs of a known defective part/system malfunction. If by chance the indicator lights do show up, they won't even accept a picture, showing mileage or something to verify it's that vehicle or take a document from another reliable source (I.e., advance auto, etc.) we need a recall! please help!

- Carrollton, VA, USA

Rear seat behind the driver is locked in the down position, and cannot be returned upright. When driving, the vehicle spontaneously surges forward, especially when starting from parked or a stopped position and at highway speeds. Code read "throttle body actuator"

- Brillion, WI, USA

1st got Escape had to have some reprogramming affecting the transmission. 2nd had to have the transmission repair. 3rd my dash lights blink from bright to dim during the daytime/ 4th had to have the ignition replace - when I put my key in--would not turn-. 5th even after having the transmission repair-still changes hard. 6th sometimes when parked on and incline-place in drive-will make a "pop" noise. Still do not feel like my car is working/running at a 100%. I did take out another wrty--just incase--however it is almost up. My husband & I have drove Ford for the past 35 years-am very disappointed with my Escape. 7th use stability control once---is it suppose to sound like the car is breaking into?

- Bluff City , TN, USA

For the past 8 months my Escape has been stalling while I am driving or at a stop light, and when I am at a complete stop the car moves forward without stepping on the gas pedal!!!

- Castro Valley, CA, USA

Was driving on the 101 in phoenix Arizona and the car started jerking. Luckily I was close to an exit so I got off. I turned off the car, restarted it, and started to drive. I drove about 100 feet and it stalled. I was able to restart the car and drive it a half mile to a gas station. However, the car was jerking the whole time. The official word was that the throttle was the issue.

- Phoenix, AZ, USA

On approximately October 1, 2013, I began to experience stalling in my 2010 Ford Escape. As this happened, a wrench light came on, and the engine died. I turned it off, and it restarted and was fine for a period of time. This was repeated on several occasions. I tried to have the car repaired at the local dealership, but they were booked full for the past week, so I made an appointment for today (October 8, 2013). When I explained the problem to the dealership representative, he told me that it would probably happen again. It happened on my way home that day (last week) and also on the way in to the dealership for repairs this morning. After several hours, they called and said that my car was repaired. The billing says that their "diagnosis verified my concern, and they checked "oasis. Ssm32332. They performed etb and check failed. They found fault and replaced electronic throttle body. Retest passed." I was told that my extended warranty covered the repairs, but I was charged the $100 deductible. When I tried to check what a throttle body was, I came upon this site, which indicates this has been an ongoing problem with these vehicles, so I wonder if I should have been charged or if this should have been a recall issue. I did not drive my car for a week because I was afraid of having an accident due to the stalling situations.

- Rockport, TX, USA

Car throttle almost stalls to rough idle, sputters but cannot give it gas or rev engine wrench symbol lights up you must turn off car to restart after about 10 times and it happening every mile or so the check engine light is on and stays on even after restarting. This will happen out of nowhere while driving at any speed but idles just enough to pull over to safety ! restart and drive a mike and either just idling or accelerating it just quits going. I called taylor Ford and was told I was out of warranty but need throttle body and approx $450 ! so they too know it's an issue!

- Taylor, MI, USA

I was driving down the road when all the sudden I car lowered speed super fast, so O had to pull over and turn the card off. Let it sit for about 2-5 minutes then started back up. It is getting worse and it happened 7 times in one day.

- Temple , TX, USA

I was driving down the road in light traffic. All of a sudden my car jerked a little and lost acceleration. The wrench light came on, and I was able to pull over to the side of the road. I stopped the car, and cut it off. I started it back up, and the light was off. And everything ran fine for the remainder of the drive. Since then, this behavior has happened once or twice every couple of days. I have taken it to a shop to look at it, but will be taking it to the Ford service department as soon as I can after the shop confirmed that it is a problem with the electronic wiring with the motor.

- Richlands, NC, USA

Ford Escape 2010, driving on the highway, the wrench light comes on and the car begins to sputter and loses power. It revs up then down. I turn off the car, wait a minute, and when I start it back it runs fine, then repeats after 20 minutes of driving.

- Bedford, NY, USA

I was driving on highway 680 in stop N go traffic. I put my foot on gas to go, but my car just wouldn't go. I tried to accelerate, but nothing happened. I quickly pulled over in the shoulder on the right side. The car started shaking. I put my car in parking mode and turned off the engine. I restarted it again, and it worked. So, I went into the oncoming traffic to get back on the highway. After about a mile further in stop N go traffic, my car did the same exact thing. It stopped working, and started shaking when I pulled over to the shoulder. I turned off the engine again. I wasn't feeling comfortable with driving my car since same thing happened twice. So, I had to call the tow company and had it towed to my home.

- San Jose, CA, USA

Throttle, car stalls in the middle of traffic on highway and streets, no warning.

- Richmond, VA, USA

I purchased a 2010 Ford Escape XLT, used on Feb 28, 2012 from a Ford dealer, northeast phila. It had 52,000 miles. I purchased an extended 3year 36,000mile bumper to bumper extended warranty from date of purchase. Upon driving off the lot, I noticed high idle at rest, low acceleration and shifting by itself when accelerating and trying to slow to stop. I immediately took the vehicle back to the dealer, a couple of days later. Service mgr. Said that he took my vehicle home, drove it, found nothing wrong. I showed him service bulletins from Ford documenting vehicle accidents, similar complaints, as a result of the main computer program of the vehicle, wrong coding, codes not being read correctly, etc. Service manager denied seeing this information, despite me giving him copies. It is now August 16, 2013, vehicle is worse, idling at rest 3000 RPM, 10-20 mph idles at 4,000-5,000 RPM, louder than the radio. Vehicle shifting itself, hesitating, when trying to accelerate onto a highway ramp, or going up a hill. Vehicle shifting, and jerking while trying to slow to a stop. Took vehicle to Ford dealer route 1 langhorne, pa, closer to my home. Was told by service rep that computer codes from vehicle not being picked up by service diagnostic computer. "we had to clear your vehicle computer and reprogram it. Not covered under manufacturer or extended warranty. Therefore you pay the $90 diagnostic fee". it is routine maintenance". I said how is a computer malfunction in the vehicle, requiring a complete wipe and reprogram routine maintenance? they refused to return my $90. Vehicle still same problem, slightly less, a little more quieter, still running 4000 RPM on mild acceleration. I am afraid, because it was shifting up when I was trying to slow to a stop.

- Levittown, PA, USA