8.0
pretty bad- Typical Repair Cost:
- $540
- Average Mileage:
- 110,500 miles
- Total Complaints:
- 4 complaints
Most common solutions:
- not sure (3 reports)
- replace coil packs (1 reports)
5.4 engine, 99850 miles when accelerating / merge onto highway truck jerks at 60 to65 mph. Can't figure if plugs or catalytic converter as when you hit with rubber mallet no noise of loose objects in cat. Other question how do you get vehicle report if you don't have phone service?
- Gregg F., Berea, OH, US
This only happens 3 or 4 times a week. It's when I I'm at an idle or under 5mph it starts to shudder and act like its going to die but it doesn't.
Update from May 25, 2020: According to my computer code reader I needed to replace the O2 sensors and the VTC sensors. I did both and it was of little use. I am still having the same issues. I guess it's time for the dealer.
- Stephen M., Lakewood, WA, US
click to see larger images
coil packs go bad
This, from what I've heard, is a fairly common problem with the 5.4L and 4.6L ford V8s. It happens around 130,000 miles (from what I'm told). It feels and awful lot like a transmission slip but the engine doesn't flare. The truck stutters and jerks under acceleration and feels like it has no torque.The problem is that the coil packs don't fire and it causes a misfire. It's escpecially bad when you go to pass someone. It's only when the truck is moving and it downshifts to accelerate, which is why I thought it was a transmission slip at first. It could be dangerous because what if you think you have enough room to pass someone but then not have the truck accelerate enough to complete the pass. You've just received a free pass to the hospital.
- Lane M., Spring Hill, FL, US
My problem only happens between 3000 and 3500 RPM in any gear while accelerating at I would guess medium throttle thru flooring it. If I stay below 3000 this particular problem doesn't happen. If I hit that 3000 rpm and it starts I can let off the gas, let it shift and it goes away until it hits 3000 again. If I stay in the range It will throw the check engine light drop into limp home mode until I allow the rpm to drop below 1000 rpm. Once I do that, light goes out, goes back into normal drive until I hit 3000 RPM again.
Took it to the shop, they had it 2 days, verified the problem as I describe it but found no solution. Shop reported a miss on 1 and 8 and it went away then they wanted to pop the valve covers and I took it home from there. It's still a strong running engine in all other ranges so I didn't think pulling valve covers would reveal what they were looking for. Truck drives great, throws no recorded code not even when the light comes on as stated earlier, I think the engine runs strong but only as long as I stay below or above 3000 and 3500 rpm.
Engine now has 150077 miles, I have had the truck since 99000 miles, I've not changed plugs or coils yet (I know that's a lot of miles on them) but I have had the transmission, axles, transfer case serviced and injectors, brake fluid system and coolant system cleaned. I had the other reported F150 problem of hard shift in passing gear. I drove with that until it wouldn't shift out of first. I took it in for that and there was a cracked gasket permitting the oil to drain back into the pan instead of staying up top. I've run a few bottles of seafoam through the fuel with no change. The only thing keeping me from buying plugs and coils beside cost is its consistently at 3000 - 3500 RPM. Now I am sort of leaning towards a transmission problem, except it acts like fuel is spitting into the cylinder. It's the 5.4 liter manufactured late 2008 according to the details I could find.
- bud3161, Del City, US