I own a 2013 Ford F-150, 2nd owner bought with 65,000 on the odometer and at 90,000 started shutting down and not restarting back up again. Once this happened the ADVANCETRAC light came on as well as the BRAKE and ABS lights. Took it to a local dealership and the result was the notorious #27 fuel pump fuse, had it replaced with a kit and drove it fine for a week then it started to shut off completely WHILE DRIVING, very very dangerous if I might add especially while driving on a highway. Took it back to the same dealership and they came at me with, it might be the ignition switch cylinder or a new key! Bought both and paid labor with a total of $765 including the #27 fuse replacement! Drove it for a couple of days and yes it did it again....... After extensive online research I come to cross roads between the INDOOR FUSE JUNCTION BOX and the CIRCUIT BREAKER which is located on the battery. I will not return to a dealership being that not even a FORD dealership knows what causes this issue and just keep guessing at my expense so I will trouble shoot and keep you posted, fellow F-150 victims!

won't turn over/back on after "shift to park" warning My 2013 F150 3.5L V6 Eco Boost (Turbo) 4X4 King Ranch with 38,400 miles on it on 11-18-2016 HAS T HE EXACT SAME PROBLEM AS THE FOLLOWING USER. After turning truck off it will NOT turn back on until you disconnect the battery and leave disconnected OVERNIGHT. Even if you touch both + and - wires together AFTER disconnecting ALL of them from the battery, you still have to wait for the ECM to reset.(My ECM model number is DL3A-12A650-AAF) When the truck changed to the LIMP Home State I experienced At night, Low Beams only (can not turn them off or on high nor fog lights,) Heater on high with blower on high with No User Control, (cold 37F out that night,) turn signals and dash gauges(speed, Odometer not counting miles, temp,oil pressure,) not working but back lit with white light only no blue on dash, dash info center screen not on, center screen console blank and not on. Interior lights on when you open door but no dash control of them. Windows work, (back and sunroof as well worked) radio worked, DO NOT TURN ENGINE OFF UNTIL YOU GET WHERE YOU ARE GOING...IT MAY NOT START AGAIN for a long time even if you think that this will reset the ECM, it will NOT. Truck is in LIMP HOME Mode and the engine is running normally. You will not have speed indicator but will be able to get somewhere if you keep the truck turned on. The Headlights will Not turn off if you turn the truck off and this could run the battery down over time, as I do not know if the 45 minute delay for "battery saver" will kick in (and shut the headlights off to save power) works in LIMP HOME MODE. I was surprised that the next day (after disconnecting the battery overnight) the truck cranked and ran normal with all items working normal, for the first 10 Miles, until I took it up to 65MPH and then "Shift To Park" came back on. And the Dash seemed to reboot while I was driving at that time. At home I turned engine off and it would not turn over as if no electrical power. I could hear the fuel pump pressurize the truck and a relay under the passenger side of dash energize with key turning to crank. After waiting with battery disconnected overnight again, the truck cranked normally with the check engine light on and coded this time code P2610. Which code is for ECM (truck Computer.) after clearing this code the truck has performed normally a;ll day yesterday and has not coded again yet so the jury is out on if the problem is the transfer case, the ECM or both or something else. I would like to state that the first two times the "Shift to Park" came up the truck made a MAJOR metal to metal or metal to concrete clicking sound as if the Parking Pin was trying to engage in the transmission/Transfer case as I slowed down to a stop. I did stop and inspect under the vehicle the first time in a parking lot, thinking I have lost a universal joint/ drive shaft or muffler. I also noticed that It made that same noise when at highway speeds after the "Shift to Park" warning came up again and I shifted the truck into Neutral while slowing but still rolling around 55 or 60MPH on the highway. My truck had a warning that there was a Shift to Park" Hill Descent Control failure (which Truck does not have Option that I know of / no button on dash with a declining vehicle as in the manual.) Also in succession AdvanceTrac Failure - Shift to Park came up on dash warning LCD. I suspect that I have a flawed ECM and minimal damage to the Parking Pin that was trying to engage in transfer case. Will call dealer to determine the price of new ECM, and ask if this is a known problem. Side note: I do not leave my OBD scanner plugged any longer than to check the codes with the engine off/ Acc on. Some threads suggest that a blue tooth OBD with smart phone apps may cause ECM Problems. My OBD is old school, corded and will not read codes while vehicle is running. Also, the warning for time to change the oil has been coming on for several days prior to the problem mentioned above and below. It had already changed from change oil soon to change oil required.

Update from Mar 25, 2017: I took the problem to the dealer, whom had no idea of the issue. The dealer used their OBD tool (just plugged it in without touching a button on the OBD) to clear a code and as soon as the manager plugged in the OBD tool while my truck is asking to Shift to Park and is in drive, my foot on the break, with me behind the wheel, the problem disappeared before the codes were cleared. I then test drove the vehicle around the lot with no issues but I decided to leave the vehicle with the dealer to find the problem. Dealer put truck on Ford computer and no issues came up. They could not confirm what they did to fix it. Dealer did pull the plastic covers off the passenger floor board/ kicker panel in a attempt to find the loose wire or relay. I pressed on all the relays and wiring in that area and have not had it malfunction since. Three months and counting. The computer ECM has a 8year 80K warranty. That was not the problem. WE have a loose wire/relay under the dash / side wall on the passenger side causing this problem. There was no cost from the dealer for checking on problem under the assumption of warranty for the 8/80 ECM.