Date on this complaint is when I decided to find out exactly what was causing the problem.
There was a squeaking noise every time I pushed in or released the clutch pedal (1). Around July 2022, I noticed my car would not start sometimes without slamming the clutch pedal all the way to the ground (2). The clutch pedal had some play and could be moved to the left or right about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (3). The car had very inconsistent engaging of gears when first driving off for the day (from work or home). The car would engage the clutch early at about 1/4 way when releasing the clutch pedal, compared to 1/2 way (4). This would result in the car jerking entering any gear or a very quick take-off in that gear. My short-term fix was to lift-up on the underside of the clutch pedal with my foot. This helped prevent it from happening again for the rest of that drive.
I looked under and traced the squeaking to a failed weld on the clutch pedal. This weld connects it to the linkages through the firewall to the master cylinder. Apparently the brake and transmission share the same fluid reservoir. One of the 2 welds holding it in-place failed. According to other drivers on YouTube, the pedal can come even more loose and prevent disengaging the clutch or starting the car.
I consider this a serious safety risk due to loss of speed control.
I contacted a local Ford Dealership and Brakes Plus for a quote. Both quoted $1,000 to $1,100 and 5 hours of labor. About $300 for the new pedal assembly. The rest for labor. The $300 does not include a new clevis pin. This is required as the brake pedal must be separated from the rod going to the master cylinder. It can't be reused, so this was about $2-$5 for a new one.
I attempted to repair this by replacing the entire pedal assembly. I was able to successfully replace the pedal assembly, however the restoration of surrounding systems could not be done. I had the Ford dealership do so, however they waited 7 days to look at the car, and I had to pay an extra $500 out-of-pocket for a rental.
The brake and transmission systems must be flushed and bled (pull all of the tires off). Also, attention must be paid to the battery to allow SRS system testing (The driver knee airbag has to be removed to access the pedal assembly). The battery must be disconnected afterward to prevent draining it (you will hit switches for the lights and engine start interlock, and locking/resetting the steering column, draining the battery). Several connections must be disconnected for the accelerator pedal, brake lights, cruise control disable when pushing the clutch pedal in, and engine start interlock. If you are a large person, you won't fit in that footwell. Not by a long-shot. I had to take breaks from the upside-down position with the door-sill digging into my back and my feet on the driver's headrest / pillar column to look at this stuff, and there's not enough room for both arms, my head, and tools. You have to reach through the dash via the pulled trim areas to remove bolts/nuts and wiggle the pedal assembly out. Someone else has to pull on the master cylinder to get the pedal assembly over that rod from the assembly. Some force is needed and everything is razor-sharp back there. Bring LEATHER GLOVES. A work light is required; the ambient lighting isn't enough and it's dark under there.
An alternative to replacing the assembly is having a trusted welder repair and reinforce the broken weld. The Ford dealership does not recommend this and did not state why. If you can do this, you can save yourself a grand, but this one will take a few days and many cuts to the hand.
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Date on this complaint is when I decided to find out exactly what was causing the problem.
There was a squeaking noise every time I pushed in or released the clutch pedal (1). Around July 2022, I noticed my car would not start sometimes without slamming the clutch pedal all the way to the ground (2). The clutch pedal had some play and could be moved to the left or right about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (3). The car had very inconsistent engaging of gears when first driving off for the day (from work or home). The car would engage the clutch early at about 1/4 way when releasing the clutch pedal, compared to 1/2 way (4). This would result in the car jerking entering any gear or a very quick take-off in that gear. My short-term fix was to lift-up on the underside of the clutch pedal with my foot. This helped prevent it from happening again for the rest of that drive.
I looked under and traced the squeaking to a failed weld on the clutch pedal. This weld connects it to the linkages through the firewall to the master cylinder. Apparently the brake and transmission share the same fluid reservoir. One of the 2 welds holding it in-place failed. According to other drivers on YouTube, the pedal can come even more loose and prevent disengaging the clutch or starting the car.
I consider this a serious safety risk due to loss of speed control.
I contacted a local Ford Dealership and Brakes Plus for a quote. Both quoted $1,000 to $1,100 and 5 hours of labor. About $300 for the new pedal assembly. The rest for labor. The $300 does not include a new clevis pin. This is required as the brake pedal must be separated from the rod going to the master cylinder. It can't be reused, so this was about $2-$5 for a new one.
I attempted to repair this by replacing the entire pedal assembly. I was able to successfully replace the pedal assembly, however the restoration of surrounding systems could not be done. I had the Ford dealership do so, however they waited 7 days to look at the car, and I had to pay an extra $500 out-of-pocket for a rental.
The brake and transmission systems must be flushed and bled (pull all of the tires off). Also, attention must be paid to the battery to allow SRS system testing (The driver knee airbag has to be removed to access the pedal assembly). The battery must be disconnected afterward to prevent draining it (you will hit switches for the lights and engine start interlock, and locking/resetting the steering column, draining the battery). Several connections must be disconnected for the accelerator pedal, brake lights, cruise control disable when pushing the clutch pedal in, and engine start interlock. If you are a large person, you won't fit in that footwell. Not by a long-shot. I had to take breaks from the upside-down position with the door-sill digging into my back and my feet on the driver's headrest / pillar column to look at this stuff, and there's not enough room for both arms, my head, and tools. You have to reach through the dash via the pulled trim areas to remove bolts/nuts and wiggle the pedal assembly out. Someone else has to pull on the master cylinder to get the pedal assembly over that rod from the assembly. Some force is needed and everything is razor-sharp back there. Bring LEATHER GLOVES. A work light is required; the ambient lighting isn't enough and it's dark under there.
An alternative to replacing the assembly is having a trusted welder repair and reinforce the broken weld. The Ford dealership does not recommend this and did not state why. If you can do this, you can save yourself a grand, but this one will take a few days and many cuts to the hand.
- malicious toes, Buckeye, US