7.7
pretty bad- Typical Repair Cost:
- $560
- Average Mileage:
- 131,450 miles
- Total Complaints:
- 7 complaints
Most common solutions:
- not sure (4 reports)
- replace defective head! (2 reports)
- valve adjustment (1 reports)
Complaint #3! So my Honda 2000 CRV after having the head redone, then 6 months later the 02 sensor replaced the car started to stall when i stopped and idol roughly. So we went back to Honda and the did a valve adjustment. This leads up to my #4 complaint so read on through the complaints!
Update from May 25, 2015: Todd P
Herriman Utah
- Todd P., Herriman, UT, US
The car runs then stalls/then runs again after cooling. That is annoying but that fact that my mechanic cant find the problem
- Ross W., Cedar Rapids, IA, US
I made a big mistake by buying a Honda CRV. The dealer said all it needed was a tune-up due to idling a little rough. After 3,500 miles it became much worse. Engine light with code P301 indicating a mis-fire in cylinder 1. Replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor button which did nothing. The Advance parts store said Honda had many distributor issues so I replaced the coil and module which did nothing.
The end solution was to fix a burnt #1 valve. After having the problem I now find out Honda has had this issue for years and unwilling to do anything about it. I'm fixing the valve, sell the car and will never buy another Honda. I hope you are not a sucker like me and get one of these lemons.
- Ken H., Orlando, KY, US
my 2000 crv check engine came on obd code po1381 went to have it check was told by shop these cars for this year should had been recalled the valves are bad alot of people are complaining Honda dealers are aware of this and still they do nothing i say lets class action there asses
- kmorgan, San Fran, Cali, US
STALLING PROBLEM CRV 2000 and other CRVs
I have a 2000 CRV 5-speed manual with 88,000 miles. I don't want to continue enriching my Honda Dealer or mechanic to fix this CRV company defect ..... enough is enough !!
The car stalls for 1-3 seconds, but the car starts fine and have not notice it rides rough. The stalling is recurrent - initially it happened when the car was cold but now occurs even with hot engine. The stalling is usually occurs when I take my foot off the gas (when going down a hill) or the car is cruising, but not when I am accelerating.
Based on reports posted in the web, the most likely culprits are either the ignition key or tight valves (or lifter rockers). While a Honda TSB has been published (see below), the dealers do not want to honor or acknowledge the problem. All they wish to do is to charge you again and not fix the issue.
If you are thinking of purchasing a CRV - good luck. Buying a Honda? .... never again !!
TSB #03038 -- ROUGH IDLE, HARD TO START, POOR ENGINE PERFORMANCE, OR MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) COMES ON WITH DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, OR P0172. *TT *EH (NHTSA ID #10008524, NOVEMBER 05 2004)
- Alexander S., Gaithersburg, MD, US
I paid to replace a burnt valve on my 2000 CRV at around 65,000 miles. Not what I expected from a honda. Now at 125,000 miles I had stalling problems and rough/surging idle problems apparently due to a defective head. I have had the valves adjusted, replaced O2 sensor, replaced idle air control, cleaned the throttle body to no avail. Needless to say I am not happy. I contacted Am. Honda and the local dealer to no avail. I'm game for a class action suit. I plan on driving around with a "THIS CAR IS A LEMON" sign also. Honda needs to make good on this or risk losing their reputation as one of the most dependable cars. Estimated cost from dealer is $3800+.
- qcar, Louisville, KY, Pacific Islands (US)
I have changed my B20B3 1998 Manual Transm engine because severe oilconsumption and it overheated and went defect.Bought a newer used engine year 2000 B20Z1 Manual Transm engine but discovered that there were different inlet airintake (manifold), different distributor), and different PCM. However I used all my older (B20B3) version and started up= beautifully -BUT except for then just after starting the engine started pulsing up and down a couple hundred rpm around 1500 rpm steady- and stayed there till suddenly the working temp was about 75-80 degrees (I guess.-but it was warm anyway) then it suddenly dropped till ca 700- 800rpm and was steady like a rock there .I tried go give more speed and sudden accelerator movements and expected some kind of drop out etc but none!! It returned down to steady rpm and stayed there. So I took a drive and drove for about 40km -no change all, it was very ok and returned down, no problem yet. Turned it off and went for dinner and came back and all repeated itself the exact same way = stayed on 1500 rpm, +- till it got warm then ok !!!
None in Honda in Norway can help.They do not know the problem and they can not also tell me what engines is in which Honda CRV and which one have the different PCM.I have the orginal PCM from 2000 and there are following differences between 1998 (mine B20B3) and the B20Z1 engine 2000 year) Mine has connector A32 pins -B=blank no connector-C31 pins and D 16 pins
But my newer B20z1 has A32pins, B25 pins,C31 pins and D Blank no connector.
So I "dived" into the workshop manuals and found out the PCM for B20Z1 had exactly the same colours and same destinations on the new prosessor as it had on my older from 1998 .But with one difference only -There was made a quite different pinout removing all from D connector at mine old and repositioned them to fit among other on connector B.This means that this processor also handle different air flow, different injectors, different distributor and different air intake and also a knock sensor which was not on my earlier B20B3.So i am on the look for a engine wire harness for the B20Z1 which is very difficult to find here -But when i get it I can install the "missing parts" and get my engine to run normal -or other tips is sincerely very well appreciated answer to my : e mail : a543manchrysler89@hotmail.com -Anyone ???!! I know that there is a solution for the problems and that is that engine wire harness complete with 3 connectors A-B-C + the green one outside the SRS unit
- pvdanoscar, Ørje, Østfold, Norway