I bought a 2013 Hyundai Elantra from a friend that changed to oil every 3000 miles at the dealer, they never mentioned to him once the car had piston slap. I bought it 8/1/23 and immediately realized it had piston slap when cold so I took it to my local Hyundai dealer they had the car for 4 months just to tell me the motor is bad and could have catastrophic engine failure at any time, but it was not bad enough to warrant fixing under the good will warranty, So they gave me a price of $9,200.00 for a new engine or $6400.00 for a used motor. I paid $4500.00 for the car and the most it is worth is $7000.00 and they want me to put a $9200.00 motor in a car that is only worth 7000.00. I had heard Hyundai was taking care of this problem, because it is definitely a defect in manufacturing, is there any where I can go on line directly to Hyundai to reapply for goodwill warranty? I personally think the dealer just sat on my car and then said Hyundai would not fix it!

any tips could help!

I bought this car for my daughter for school and come to find out there is an engine class-action that Hyundai settled. The didn't call it a recall but instead they advise of the problem and "non-official" recall if you call about the problem. The key is that you have to live in one of a variety of cold weather states or that the car was kept, and driven there for at least 55 days. Well my daughter lives in TX but goes to college in North Dakota. When she returned home this spring, I noticed a tapping in the engine, and called Hyundai about this and also mentioned the class-action settlement. They set me up with an appointment and to cover other items on recall and the service team did not know much about it.

They stated the car needed to be registered in a cold weather state, but did not read far enough that the issue is covered if the car was kept and driven in a cold weather state for up to 90 days. Well it has and the tech's are trying to give me a hassle about it. The car has not even turned 70k miles yet, and wouldn't you know it, this is the average mileage that the issue appears. Hyundai needs to stand behind this and have the car fixed or engine replaced. This is a drivetrain issue, offered under their 120k miles extended warranty program, which of course passes to the following owners if the warranty mileage still applies. There are many cases of this problem and it needs to be taken care of my Hyundai or we will see them in court.

ABSOLUTE GARBAGE.

I, like so many others out there, have developed an engine knock. It's loudest on cylinder 1, or the passenger side of the engine. I removed the oil pan and found that the connecting rod bearing had about 1/16" of play. I replaced the bearing and the cap bolts, torqued to spec and put everything back together. The knock was a little quieter but persisted. Upon further investigation, I found that I was not alone - there are MANY others out there with this problem. Evidently, there's an issue with either the coating on the cylinder wall, the wrist pin was incorrectly machined or the piston skirt is too short allowing the piston to shift under detonation and the skirt slaps against the cylinder wall. This not only wears down the side of the piston but damages the cylinder wall.

So the "solution" I keep reading is that for several thousand dollars a dealership will replace your motor. Mind you, it's the same problematic motor and the problem is highly likely to happen again because nothing is being done to address the root of the problem.

Hyundai knows they made a mistake with the 2011-2013 1.8L Nu engine, hence the reason why they issued a recall on the Canadian models. So ask yourself, why isn't there one for the US models? If they want to compete with Honda and Toyota, they have to stand behind their product. Come on Hyundai, we know you can make a great motor, this just wasn't one of them. It's time to be accountable and show consumers that you care. That is what builds brand loyalty.

Just bought this car for my teenage son. Used ALL of my savings and 3 days later the car starts making a clicking sound. It goes away once the car warms, but as a single mom with limited resources, I was concerned.

I came online and am now seeing how this is a known engine problem and I'm now stuck with a car that I don't feel is safe for my son to drive and I don't have the thousands of dollars it will take to fix it.

I don't understand why Hyundai hasn't done a recall on this with how many folks have complained about it.

I am also kicking myself and in tears because I spend all my savings on a car that I can't sell, use or fix. The mechanic who checked it found nothing wrong. Of course it didn't start clicking until 3 days later and Kentucky doesn't have a lemon law so I can't return it. So frustrated and heartbroken.

This is my 2nd Hyundai Elantra. I bought a 2007 Elantra BRAND NEW with only 7 miles on it, in 2007. I drove it until January of this year when I was hit by a driver with no insurance. I only had liability insurance since the car had been paid off over 10 years. During the 13 years I owned the car, the only thing I ever had to do, was change the oil, put in gas, and do the regular maintenance (brakes, tires, recommended maintenance). It was the best car I have ever owned. Comfortable (I am 6'6" and 220lbs), durable (I beat the crap out of the car as I got when I just turned 19) and reliable ( It never ONCE not started for me). Well since it was time to get a new car after it was wrecked, I decided to buy another Elantra with the cash in my savings. My last Elantra was so amazing, why would I think twice? I am embarassed to say, that with my knowledge of mechanics, and cars in general, a quick google search would have steered me away from buying this car. But.I come from a Hyundai loyal family, my mom has one, my sister has two, and this is my 2nd. So I saw it at the dealer, and it was 1 owner, all maintenance receipts, 103K, and was flawless, inside and out. People see it and still can't believe that its not a NEW car. The good stops there. I paid $7k total for the vehicle and a few weeks after purchase, I noticed upon cold startup the engine would tick. After it warms up, the ticking goes away and Ive done some reading on how the NU 1.8 ticks, but that the tick can get worse, and lead to catastrophic engine failure. I have had the car now, 4 months and I have had no issues with it. Last weekend I went outside to get in the car to go get some breakfast and my neighbor who lives a few houses down and has a silver 13 Elantra GLS comes driving by, and her car sounds like a TANK. The ticking.. was actually banging. I stopped and asked her if she knew more. Hyundai refused to fix the engine when she brought it in a 108K even thought she is the first owner, and has all maintenance receipts. They told her it would be $6k to fix and the car is worth $1500 on trade in. She's going to drive it till it blows up.

I was such a loyal Hyundai owner but now I am afraid that the engine is going to blow. I dont have much money left in savings as I paid $7k cash for the car. Does anyone know if all the 1.8s tick? And do all of them fall victim to piston slap and engine failure? Im look for an honest, educated, reply, not some doomsday post about how bad its going to be. I will keep updating as time goes on, and also if anything occurs with the engine. I hate this because I felt so safe in my last Elantra. I could drive anywhere, and never worried about it breaking down. Even cross country (from Idaho to North Carolina). If the engine goes in this car before 150K miles. I WILL NEVER BUY A HYUNDAI AGAIN. If it lasts longer than that, ill consider it a fluke and remain loyal. My sisters 2014 Sonata Limited got a free Theta II engine replacement, and her 2014 Veloster Turbo has never given her any trouble. My Mom's 2019 Genesis has been excellent as was her 2012 Eqqus was before it.

Keeping my fingers crossed and awaiting some educated replies! Thank you all.

Update from Feb 20, 2023: I have had this car two years and it has cost me just as much as I paid for it to keep it running. The engine is still ticking (bought car with 103,000miles) it now has 147k but idles very rough (no one can find the cause). Over $6000 in repairs over two years. If you have an Elantra that runs I suggest you DUMP it.

Replaced WITHIN TWO YEARS OF OWNERSHIP -Spark Plugs and Wires ($250) -Struts ($1400) -Tires (TWO SETS $700 each for $1400) dealer cannot figure out why it wears em so fast. -Blower Motor (did it myself for $85) -ALL LIGHT BULBS (Have been replaced 5 times.. ALL OF THEM) $300 -Drivers Power Window Switch (did it myself for $110) -Brakes (TWICE both complete jobs Calipers, Rotors, Pads $950) -Power Heated Drivers Mirror (Just stopped working $150) -Fuses constantly fail (especially for the 12v outlets about $20) -Battery (Stock didnt have enough CCAs car wouldnt start $150) - Air Conditioning Lines (Ruptured due to road rocks and recharge $380) -Steering Wheel Controls (only work if the wheels are turned right $210) -Paint Clear Coat is slowly flaking (Havent repaired) -Windshields (TWICE $660)

2/11/19 brought to dealer after noted ticking noise from engine. Had already looked up ticking noise and is related to piston slap. Hyundai agreed to pay half of price of short block, my price was $4000 out of pocket. Since new short block placed has had nothing but other issues with rough idling when stopped or in park. Car has been in and out of dealer since with issues with less than 1k miles on since new short block. Dealer claimed they fixed it stating that the coil wiring wasn't correct but continued to have same issues with. Car has now been at dealer for 5 weeks (that's ok, I have their loaner car-2019 Sonata) with only 1 phone call to me stating that they can not get car to duplicate the rough idling. Rough idling happens only once engine is warmed up (about 2-3miles of driving). Car has 108,000 miles on

My wife was driving a car she was at a stop light, all of a sudden car made a ticking noise and steering wheel and brake locked up and engine shuts off. After that turned it back on and car developed a ticking noise, so I set up an appointment for oil change. I left my car at dealership for inspection. After 2 days they said; your car is done, oil changed and they said there is no ticking noise. Your car is running fine. At this point dealership seemed to have heard nothing about it and blew me off. Very frustrating, my car still having that problem. Help me!! My car has 67,100 odometer, also I still have 10 yr/100,000 mi Power Train Warranty.

During the polar vortex, my car started to make a ticking when idling and also when accelerating. After reading horrific stories online about this problem, I decided to take it to the Hyundai dealership to diagnose the issue. My fear was confirmed yesterday. I need a new engine. I'm waiting to see if it is covered by warranty. I bought my 2013 Elantra in November 2015 from a dealership. It was approximately 82,000 miles on it. Regardless of if this issue is covered under warranty, I will never recommend Hyundai to anyone. I've experienced another issue where the clear coating is chipping off my front bumper all over the place, which according to the internet, is another common problem with Elantas. I'm not impressed.