First I love my Jeep, just thought this should be a recall. Go out one morning and think I left the window down over night (and it rained) only to notice it slid down because the cable broke. (Cable??? wth).. I find out from Jeep dealership, yes its a cable on a drum like an elevator works. (the old worn gear driven scissor lift that was used for decades in almost every car made apparently doesn't break down enough for the manufacturers to make parts money)

This is called "Planned obsolescence" or built-in obsolescence. It is an industrial design policy or practice of planning a product with an artificially limited useful life so it will become obsolete or no longer functional after a certain period of time, thus more money in parts.

Would not have complained except this happened to all four windows.. yep all four! 2006, 2007, and both rear in 2014 within a month apart.

BTW when I was 20 I worked as a warranty parts mechanic/electronics installer for my pops GM dealership. I know whats going on. American automobile manufacturers in the 70's almost gave themselves the death blow from the practices they performed in assembly line production. In the meantime Japan and the rest of the world was building a reputation of reliability that still holds favor today.

Come on America we can do better, and Ill admit we have made huge strides in quality the last twenty years. Lets not let clever planned obsolescence put us in the rear view of any country.

ok my rant is over :D

Well I beat the system on this one. The power window regulators on this model have a plastic piece that the slides up and down with the cable ends hooked into it. That plastic piece breaks off and the cable end comes out. I am a long time professional technician so being a Mc Guiver type I took out the regulator and saw what had happened. The process is difficult but works. You have to first drill a hole in the metal part of the regulator (Move the plastic piece out of the way) about a 1/4 inch in size to do the repair and it has to be drilled to line up with the middle of the plastic piece that breaks. The reason for the hole is to allow access to drill a small hole in the plastic piece and put a screw into the plastic piece through the first hole you drilled to retain the cable. Then you take apart the motor (3 screws in the plastic pulley part only, and remove the pulley) and let the cable go loose so you can have some slack. Reinstall the cable in the plastic slider piece that broke and put the screw in through the hole , and screw it into the plastic piece tightening it over the cable. The screw has to be fairly short as not to go through the plastic piece completely and hit the metal casing, causing it to stop, and have a big enough head to just go through the 1/4 inch hole but not to hit the metal casing the plastic piece slides in to retain the cable end. Once the cable is secured again, wind the slack in the cable back up on the motor pulley and reinsert it. You will install the cable on one end of the regulator around the small pullet but will not install the cable on the pulley on the other end of the regulator at this point. just put the motor back together and put the 3 screws back in. Now comes the fun part, the cable housings are spring loaded on each side of the motor so take a small screwdriver and put it under the cable at the pulley you didn't install the cable on, hook it on the pulley and pry and work the cable back on to the pulley. Presto you are done, put it back into the door and hook the window back up. This really works great. The downside is for some reason the cable end pops out from the screw about once every six 7months probably from so much torque when the window stops at the top and bottom. It is annoying but I just go through the same procedure again and put it back in and it last another six months. At 300 dollars for the part, I can fix it every six months with no problem. Good luck.