2003 Mazda6 model cars were built with faulty throttle bodies. Unaware of this, I bought one of these vehicles and immediately began experiencing issues with it. When driving very slowly, under 15 mph, the car will suddenly throttle, accelerating it in bursts even when applying the brakes. That issue is problematic but relatively minor; however, there is a much more dangerous issue the faulty throttle body creates. When driving at any speed, the faulty throttle body can cause the engine to cut out without warning. My wife was driving with our kids in the car the first time we had the engine cut out while driving (soon after purchasing the car). Luckily, she was driving in a residential area at 25 mph. The engine has cut out on me while driving 65 mph on the freeway. I was forced to coast through freeway traffic to the shoulder in order to stop the car and restart the engine. The engine has cut out, without warning, at several speeds. There is no rhyme to when it will cut out and no indication it's going to cut out ahead of time. I spent over $500 trying to solve the problem with mechanics unsure what was wrong. Then a mechanic happened to have an old service bulletin (sb), dated 5/18/2006, from Mazda that stated throttle bodies with the markings aa, ab, or ba at the end of their serial numbers (as is the case with the one in my car) are "no good". because the part is labeled "no good" under Mazda letterhead, I figured there must have been a recall issued before I owned the car that the previous owner somehow missed. I took the car in to a Mazda dealership where I was assured no recall has ever been issued on the part and in order to replace it, the cost will be over $1,000. A recall must be made on this extremely dangerous and faulty, by Mazda's own admission, part before unsuspecting people are injured or killed, if that hasn't happened already.

- Sunnyvale, CA, USA

The contact owns a 2003 Mazda 6. the contact stated while inspecting the vehicle, an unknown fluid started leaking onto the ground. The failure occurred without warning. The vehicle was taken to a dealer, where it was diagnosed that the radiator cap and coolant bypass fitting had malfunctioned. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, where it was repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the issue. The approximate failure mileage was 125,326.

- Milpitas, CA, USA

The contact owns a 2003 Mazda 6. the contact stated that while driving at unknown speeds, the vehicle began to act as if it wanted to stall with the RPM gauge going up and down on the vehicles instrument panel as well as the check engine warning indicator illuminating. The contact stated the failure was a recurring one. The vehicle was taken diagnosed by an independent mechanic, but the diagnosis details could not be provided. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.

- Independence, MO, USA

I started hearing a knocking/ticking noise from the top of the engine. I took it to the auto workshop I was told I will have to change my car engine when the engine has not even get to 100,000 mile.

- Newark, NJ, USA

Bought a 2003 Mazda 6 last year, my tachometer kept going crazy and the car would die out. I took it to good year, 3 codes came up. They changed the cam shaft sensor and the egr valve. That didn't fix the problem, good year took the parts out, put mine back in and told me to take it to a Mazda dealership. I took it to Mazda, they told me I had to change my PCM because it was shorting out, and my egr valve and that should take care of the problem. They quoted me 2K dollars for everything. I asked them how much they were charging for the parts, they told me 1100 for the PCM and 200 for the egr, the rest was labor. As the service advisor quoted me prices, I told her I can buy a PCM online for 145. She said, yes, you can do that, but we won't warranty the job because it's not our part. I told them are you sure that will take care of the problem" they said yes. I told them okay fine! constantly calling the dealership for 2 weeks asking when I was going to get my car back, they gave me a loaner. I had that for a week, so they had my car a total of 3 weeks. Finally I called again, I asked them what's going on with my car. They told me, I need a new engine. I was like what? what happened to 2K will take care of the problem? they said no, there's too much sludge in the engine, you need a new one. Upset, I'm already in for 2K and now they want me to spend another 5K for a new engine. Mind you, I was already hesitant because of the price of the PCM. Any way, service advisor tells me, I can buy a new/used engine online for 500 and have them change it. I told them that was the whole reason, I didn't buy the PCM online!I was told you wouldn't warranty it, now you want me to buy one online? I went to the dealership, picked up my car, still the same problem. I'm not the only one, see link... https://www.youtube.com/watch?V=xpkzphe4sbi or www.youtube.com/watch"V=N6foaybw_5K.

- Waianae, HI, USA

My vehicle has been having an issue with the throttle position sensor. As well as the PCM, usually connected as noted by my mechanic. 3 things can come from this he said. I could be having an issue with the gas pedal, the computer, or I need a new throttle body. From my understanding so far the issue causes the computer to incorrectly read, causing the check engine light as well as a few others to abruptly turn on while car is in full motion, for me this is typically at 55 mph. The car then looses the ability to properly accelerate, or decelerate. I have to quickly pull my car to the shoulder, put in park while the car seems to be lurching forward, and turn off the engine. If I do not do this quick enough the engine begins to rev high and low continuously. My RPM gauge bounces around as it is doing so. After leaving the car off for a few moments I can then restart. My check engine light will now stay on for about 50 miles and turn itself off. Once the light has gone off usually within 15 miles my car will do it all over again. After calling my dealer, because I still owe 2 more years of payment on the car, I am told that they can fix it if I have my warranty intact. Unfortunately it has run out as of July. The part alone from the dealership is $700. Why is there no recall on this issue if so many people are having it?

- Georgetown, DE, USA

Was at a stop sign to make a left turn half way thru the car stalled and all lights came on, vehicle behind me almost ran into us. Barely got pulled over to the side of the road had to turn car off and then back on the check engine light remained on but vehicle would drive, after about 5 starts the light came off had the car checked, was told it was the throttle body. One week later same thing wet to pull onto a busy street and car stalled almost causing another wreck, tried to drive it home and stopped at the grocery store, when I went to pull in the car stalled again in the middle of the street, blocking on coming traffic. Called Mazda to see how much it would cost to be fixed, the lady told me that if it was still under warranty it would be free but that expired in 2011. I have seen many of the same complaints about this, Mazda has admitted to it being a problem but has not recalled it. We have two kids and thank god nothing serious has happened with us in the car. This problem could very easily cause injury or deaths to any drivers on the road.

- Portland, OR, USA

While driving home the car seemed to have lost all power, but was still running. I was able to coast to my house but then tried to stop and the car surged. I had to pull the emergency brake to stop. I was quite shaken at that point. The engine light came on. I was able to drive it back to town to have the car checked, no error codes showed up on the computer. The engine light did go off, the car ran fine for about 3 months then proceeded to do the same thing. The car lost power but I was able to coast to my place of work. However even though there seemed to be no power again when I tried to brake the car surged and the car almost jumped the curb, which would have put me in my office. I again had the vehicle checked, no errors. After researching it seems this may be due to the automatic throttle sensor. Question with all the complaints, cars stalling at high speeds and the surging of vehicles why is there no recall. You recall for a stupid lights, over spraying of a clear coat, but no recall on something that is putting people in danger?? I don't understand.

- Frenchtown, MT, USA

I purchased a 2003 Mazda 6 about a month ago, and I have had the hard shifting problems and the temp gauge going up to high all the time and floating back down. I was not informed of this and other recalls of this model and I have been denied to get the problem fixed. The dealer where I bought it said they flashed it a couple times but it is not stated O N my repair receipt. I feel that I am driving a dangerous car and something needs to be done!!!! I am not going to keep driving this car and I feel I can take it back because my first payment is not due yet. Be it said that this car has been in the shop 4 times since day one! they still will not fix it and it is under warranty. This is a rip off and this model is unsafe and these models should be taken off of the market!!!

- Lakeland, FL, USA

The contact owns a 2003 Mazda Mazda6. The contact stated that while driving approximately 50 mph, the vehicle stalled without warning. The contact stated that blue smoke was emitting from the tail pipe as the check engine light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic for diagnosis. The mechanic stated that the catalytic converters were clogged and would have to be replaced. Additionally, the mechanic stated that the front passenger's side tie rod was loose and could fracture. The vehicle was not repaired. The VIN was not available. The approximate failure mileage was 122,000.

- Galloway, NJ, USA