10.0

really awful
Typical Repair Cost:
$2,550
Average Mileage:
111,500 miles
Total Complaints:
3 complaints

Most common solutions:

  1. replace timing chain tensioner (3 reports)
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problem #3

Mar 222017

Maxima SE Vq35de

  • Automatic transmission
  • 95,000 miles

It is a very labor intensive job. Expect an expert to take 2 full days, of just labor.

- S F., Dover, US

problem #2

Mar 042018

Maxima SE V6

  • Automatic transmission
  • 99,000 miles

Maxima and it started to loose power and turned off. I tried several times to start it, but it wouldn't hold the idle and turned off again. No Nissan Dealership or repair shop was open so I called the nearest Pep Boys shop to my home and they towed my car to their repair shop. They said my car was totally dead and needed a new battery even though my battery wasn't that old.

I purchased a battery, still wouldn't start. Pep Boys then said I needed a new alternator, so that was installed, still wouldn't start. They then said it must be the engine, so the next day, Monday, March 4, 2018, it was towed to the Fairfield, CT Nissan Dealership where it is currently until I can figure out what to do.

After 3 days, of calling the Nissan Dealership to find out what was wrong with my car, Bet, in the Nissan Service Department told me that they had taken off the side of my engine and tried to manually turn the drive shaft, but it wouldn't turn and that it was the timing chain and that it would cost anywhere from $2,600.00 to $3,600.00 to repair my car. Please help with start a case, I can't afford this. I'm in school for Paralegal Studies and a CT licensed tax preparer.

Kevan R. Moragne

(203) 993-1287

- Kevan M., Bridgeport, US

problem #1

Apr 232017

Maxima SE 3.5L

  • Automatic transmission
  • 140,383 miles

The engine cuts out at awkward times. It usually cuts out at stoplights after being run hard. Cold engine works fine, but once it warms, it stops. It has stopped in the middle of driving, shutting down all power including that to power steering, forcing one to exert great force to move car to side of the road. Waiting until cool, and restarting would usually start the engine... The transmission light would come on but the car would run in either first gear, or fifth gear. Automatic transmission would pull the car but it would be a very slow start, but at cruising speed it would be navigable. We found we could prevent shutoff by shifting in neutral at stops, shifting to neutral, and gunning the RPM's above 1100... Then shift back to first gear, usually with a jerk, and quickly max out first gear, then shift with a jerk to 5th, since the automatic transmission would have lost all thought processes.

If one was on straight highway and at cruising speed, one could shift into neutral, and attempt to start the car while rolling. Not recommended. The car would usually start in the secondary mode described above and would continue in that mode, until allowed sufficient time to cool down, then it would work in its original capacity.

The engine finally refused to fire on cold start. The system would almost fire but then would quit and just spin without any spark hitting gas.

- K. M., Newark, US