I purchased a 2001 Sebring Convertible that had a brand new engine put in at 71,000 miles. I have a ten year, 100,000 mile warranty on the engine itself. I now have 81,392 miles on the car, and I have had the oil sending unit replaced 2 times. The oil light was coming on once I got close to needing my oil changed and it would only happen when I stopped. Took it in and it needed a new oil sending unit. It was fine for a while, then it started happening again. This time the oil sending unit was defective, so they replaced it. It worked for a couple of months and started acting up again. Now the light comes on when I stop, and then after I have been on the road for a while it flashes on and off and eventually stays no until I park the car. The process starts all over again the next time I drive. I called the mechanic this morning and he said do not drive the car. I had it towed in a little while ago and I am waiting to hear back from them. I am afraid the engine is going out again. I read on here that someone changed their radiator cap and that took care of the same issue I am having so I asked the mechanic to do that for me as well. I have also had several other issues...the lower control arm and ball bearing joint covers had to be replaced as well as coolant hoses. The heater wouldn't work and I had to have it worked on by two different mechanics before they finally got that fixed. The trunk will kill you if you are not careful because it will stay open for a minute then all of a sudden come down hard. It about knocked me out one day when I was getting groceries out of the car. All of this and it is still my favorite car! I love driving it!! I just wish I could get the problem taken care of.

I purchased a 2001 Chrysler Sebring Convertible Ltd. with 55,000 miles on it. One month after I had it, my transmission started slipping. Chrysler fixed it for $850.00, It only took them 7 visits and 4 month later to get it right. My back defroster fell off $60.00 to fix. 8 months later my oil light starts to come on when I stop only after driving for about 25min. I take it to a mechanic and he says that the engine is not getting any oil pressure when the car is at a stop, the only way to fix it is to rebuild the engine, or simply buy a new one for about $4000-$5000. His suggestion get rid of it!

Do not buy the 2.7L V6... unless u have lots of extra $$$$ to spend on fixing it.

I have recently purchase my car (MY BABY). It's my first car, and I am so disappointed in it. At first it was running perfectly fine then all of a sudden, it started idling so I took it to a dealer. The car started shaking and started to shut off on me and the oil light comes on. The dealer said that the engine computer is bad and I will need to replace it, costing roughly $85 an hour for labor and $600 for an engine computer.

I really don’t know what to do at this point! I thought I was going to get a dependable car but I guess I bought a piece of sh*t. I would think that Chrysler needs to take responsibility for a faulty car.

Two weeks ago, my 2001 Chrysler Sebring Lxi (135,000km/84,000mi) was overheating and I quickly pulled into a Chrysler dealership. The overheating was caused by a faulty water pump, which also cracked the thermostat housing due to the pressure. After 7 hours labor to replace the water pump, the mechanic called to say he could not reassemble engine with the failing timing chain tensioner. Total bill $1700.00 Canadian. Four days later, the oil pressure indicator was flashing when idling at a stop sign or light. The car was returned to the dealership, no codes were found, but the mechanic noticed the oil pressure sensor was leaking. While driving home with a new pressure sensor, the oil pressure indicator again starting flashing while the car was idling (750rpms). The car was immediately returned and an oil pressure test was completed with the following recommendation.

"Oil pressure 35 PSI when cold and drops off to 5-10 PSI after engine gets to normal operating temperature. This indicates that there is a problem internally in the engine. Replace engine."

All valves, fluids, filters have been replaced according to the Chrysler manual, but still the engine is shot at 84,000 miles. The mechanic told me to drain the 5w/30 oil and refill with 10w/30 oil, which will stop the oil indicator from flickering. He then recommended I use the car as a trade in for a new car, but asked it not be a Chrysler dealership.

Is the engine truly unsalvageable or did a part not get installed correctly when replacing the water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, and timing chain tensioner?

Hi All,

Unfortunately, I found this website very very late after 4 years when I purchased this POS! I have already had major repairs like, front tie rods, front bearings, coolant sensor, rear strut mount shattered and NOW Engine Oil Light flickering on idle.

I will be really really thankful if anyone can suggest a right solution for this problem. I can not afford to purchase a new vehicle and I am still have to pay $7000 CND. Any advice will highly appreciated.

After reading almost 100 complaints, I figured out to have the engine flush with every oil change but not sure about which oil I should put in.

I want to avoid engine failure before it happens on me while I am driving on a rood or highway. Has any lawsuit in Canada been filed yet against Chrysler?

Thank you!

Im a mechanic myself and thought I'd mention this.. I see you guys saying 5000 to 9000

repair bills. Thats just TOO much money to pay for this. These engines are badly designed ya true, But not that hard to work on. I usually charge 400 to 500 labor on these to pull the engine, replace crank & chains, oil pump & check the bore of the cams.

Most cases, heads will need to be replaced and normally a set of used heads cost about 150 each. Replacing everything is about $2000.00 and you can drive it off into the sunset as far as im concerned.

Dealers just rip you on prices D=<

I put 45,000 miles on this car in about 3 years and had very few problems until I stopped driving it as much. The oil light would start to flicker at stops and eventually it would not go off. After checking the oil levels (which were fine) I took it in have to engine flushed and had full synthetic oil put in. This worked great for a while until it started up again after about 12,000 miles with regular oil changes. With all the other problems starting to show up, this car is gone as soon as it is paid off. Looks nice, runs like crap.

Oil light, sludge, paint problems, coolant leakage are just a few problems with this vehicle. To make the light go off don't mess with replacing pumps or sensors, Won't help. You need to put a Puralator Pure One Oil filter on your car. Advance, Pep Boys, and a few others carries this brand. This particular oil filter adds 5 pounds of pressure. Next get 4 quarts of 20/50 oil and add 1 quart of Lucas Oil Treatment. This also adds to the pressure. I also ran an oil flush through the engine whenever I change it to get the sludge out that these cars produce, though no one can explain why. My oil light hasn't been on since I did this.

We bought this car for our new teenage driver. She was supposed to pay for the majority of the cost, until we drove it home from the dealership...Then we decided we would buy it and she should look for something else-NOT A CHRYSLER. She got to drive it 20 miles and it was back to the dealer the next day. The oil light kept coming on at an idle and the dealer had just replaced the oil sensor, thinking that was the problem. Thankfully we bought it from a used dealership that replaced the engine at no cost to us (which they really didn't have to do). We are so sorry we didn't see this web site sooner and avoided buying this car. It really would have financially strapped us if we had to pay for another engine on top of the car loan. It really is shameful that Chrysler will not take any responsibility with this issue, when the more we read, this is definitely a class action lawsuit that should be in the works--

I'm glad I read this website. My girlfriend owns a Chrysler Sebring and we use it as a daily driver. When the oil light started coming on she would look at me a give me awful looks. I used to change her oil even before it was due, change all the filters, and still we had the oil light coming on. The car just went over 100k this month and has been acting very sluggish in traffic, especially off the start, where this car used to have a lot of power. I started pouring in jet fuel every week, it seemed to fix it. But, the oil light would still come on. You know I didn't know what I was doing wrong, and, I really got down on myself for destroying her car. But, after reading this website. "F" Chrysler. I took the car into the dealership and there was no mention of this problem or ENGINE failure. They told me I had a cracked oil pan and that it would cost somewhere like $1500 to fix. Again, are you with me? "F" Chrysler. I took it to mechanic shop and they said the pan was not cracked, that it was made of cast iron. He found the leak to be in the oil sending unit and quoted me $30 to replace it. He also pointed out the WATER JACKET on the top of the engine that leaked out coolant. He said that the 2001 Sebrings have a major problem with leaking and the tendency to overheat if this water jacket is not replaced with a new one issued by Chrysler. It's going to cost $350. Why does this come out of my pocket? It's not. Because we trading this POS in when my gf gets home. "F" Chrysler.

The issue was the oil light was flashing when the car idled and was hot. I started with the usual, making sure the connectors on the sensors were connected. Then I connected a computer reader and even with the oil light flashing there where no codes being returned. At this point I started to worry. So I figured that maybe the oil pressure sensor went bad and I replaced that. Not very easy since it’s under the car, behind the engine by the fire wall. Still, oil light flashed. Then I remembered something like this on my Dad’s 82 Buick regal which was also a 6 cylinder. Turns out, it was a bad radiator cap. I replaced it with one that has a pressure release lever. After 200 miles I think that did the trick. So this Saturday I will flush out the radiator and put new coolant in. Doesn’t say much for Chrysler since the car is only 7 years old and only has 42k miles. I still love my 68 Cutlass Convertible more!!!